Wiring spot lights, on button and high beam?

[Ricky-410]

I've wired two hella 3000's to the front of my jap built '86 410. Originally i had them coming on with the high beam but only when another switch was on, this worked fine.

Me being fussy about how things look, i got a sj fog light button to replace the after market flick switch. But with the high beam being switched negative, i wired it like this so the light on the button would work...


This works, however the light on the button is always on slightly, but comes bright when pushed like it should. When the button is off and i release the stalk from flash position slowly, the relay kicks in and the spot lights come on???
After a bit of testing i've noticed the high beam stalk wire is live until high beam/flash is on then it is negative; knocking out the light in the button.
When i swap the wires around on the back of the switch it lights up bright all the time but everything else works like it should? Even resorted to asking it nicely but still nothing!!!

so how do i get this set up to work properly!?

thanks for any help!

[ScottieJ]

Does this help.

image.jpg (61.14 KiB) Viewed 10359 times

Personally I think it's just best to wire the spots up to an entirely seperate circuit. It means if you hit and deep water at night you can switch off your main lights to protect the bulbs and just use your spot lights.

[Ricky-410]

From what i can see I think that's how I've got it, but I'll take this down the garage and have another look tomorrow. My relay is only 4 pin? Do you think it will make a difference? I've got 5 ring micro lines on the roof that are on their own circuit, must admit i was going to run them into this circuit as well till i read that, never give it a thought!

[Darrell]

I think the only way you will make things behave using an illuminating switch is to fit a diode onto the output of the switch. As your aware both sides of the spotlight switch are live until the stalk switch is on /earthed.

Personally I would leave the earth off the spotlight switch, after all you know there switched on by the extra light.

Unless someone can see something easy that I've missed

And welcome to the club

[Ricky-410]

I think that's what I'll do! I've just got the interior part of the project done! Having wires dangling down again is a bit annoying! Will chuck it back together tomorrow and look into a Diode when everything else is finished and its on the road.
thanks! and thanks for the help.

[ScottieJ]

I was getting a bit confused looking at your diagram so the one I posted might well be the same and yes 4pin is fine.

I think Darrell is right with the diode as well, as I added to my original reply I think it's best to have them on a separate circuit myself.

[Ricky-410]

sorry, I've never made one before haha i never thought about deep water until you said either, think i've been a bit excited to get it all done and not thought! I'll just earth the relay with out going through the high beam.
thanks for the advice.

[ScottieJ]

Actually looking at it now I'm not half asleep the diagram I posted is different, You have put the switch on the positive feed to the relay. In the one I posted the switch is on the negative side of the relay so I would imagine should work but the warning light will only come on when full beam comes on Or if you used a 3way switch you could still turn the spots on independently to the headlights

[Darrell]

I'm going with the 3 way switch on/off/on , you can then have whatever you wish . That's how I would have it if ever I rewired mine (wired hi-beam only).

[Ricky-410]

like the 3 way switch idea but it was having the standard fog light switch that i wanted, i bought a relay today while i was out. with a diode on the coil inside but it makes no difference. Put the power probe on it and power seems to flow both ways with ease, so i either haven't under stood what it is i've bought or its broke!
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255229