T box advice

[kiwizook]

so, don't even ask too much, but here's the story. I threaded the breather on my t box, and managed to get a little swarf in the box( I did put some rag into the box first though!). I also noticed that the inner gear lever boot on it wasn't fitting properly so took the lever out to clean everything, and again dropped a load of crap into the t box. I then put some compressed air through the breather to try blow everything out, but a shim blew out at the rear output shaft

so the I decided to take the box apart to clean it properly. so two questions, does anyone know if I can just push that shim back in, and what is the best way to seal the box back up when I put it back together? is a liquid sealant best, or should I tap out a gasket out of some gasket paper?

any help much appreciated guys

[Boyes]

If you mean sealing the sections of the Transfer box casing together gasket sealant should be fine.

If it's a shim then I would say yes, I presume it's not a tight fit? Shims are for clearance, they're not a seal so aslong as there's no obvious damage it should be fine.

With regards of the swarf personally I would flush the box through with oil, or run some oil in it and then after 10 miles if that drain it out & replace just to be sure, as long as they're not big chunks/they shouldn't damage it and drain plug should be Magnetic to catch swarf.

My opinion anyway.

[kiwizook]

so I took my box apart, and found that the needle bearings in the intermediate gear fell apart when I took them out. has anyone got any idea where i could get new ones from? the guy who serviced it before I owned it said he had replaced all the bearings before, except the needle bearings because he couldn't find them

[Ladaman]

If there is a paper gasket there now, I would rebuild with a gasket or adjust the shims on each shaft line accordingly and reduce the shimming by the thickness of a gasket. This is normally about 0.006" or 0.15mm.
If you don't do this and just rebuild without a gasket (if there was one fitted in the first place) there is a chance you will have removed the end float fron the gear shaft lines and you could overheat the bearings and cause them to fail.

A tip I once read on a forum written by Rockwatt, was build the unit without a gasket and shim so the shafts are set to about zero clearance. Once a gasket is fitted the float will then be about correct as the case will be the thickness of a gasket wider.

Not sure of needle roller brg details, but I'm sure this will be answered very soon.

[kiwizook]

Thanks for the info ladaman, I get your point. the t box was sealed with liquid gasket sealant, so I don't think I should have problems with my clearance. I was thinking, if I use gasket paper now, will the increased clearance in the tbox have any negative effects? (ie excessive play causing damage, gear chatter, etc)

[Darrell]

Try "Googling" the part numbers for availability over there.
I have found a repair kit as I don't know what state the shaft is in.
http://www.4krawl-products.com/en/trans ... -kit-.html

The countershaft part numbers are the same for the 410 or 413 transferboxes.

[Ladaman]

I'd always ensure you have a little more rather than too little axial float on the shafts. Looking in the manual the tolerance for axial float for the shafts is 0.002"/0.006" (0.050.15mm).

Too much axial float will allow the shafts to shuttle a little when you go from acceleration to deceleration, but this should be nothing to worry about in a 20 year old gearbox. The gears will be fine.

I think you may need to check the float without a gasket.
Did the previous guy to have this gearbox apart adjust/set the end float, or did he just omit the gasket, and potentially tighten up the bearings?
If he did remove some shims, can you get hold of/make some more if you want to use a paper gasket?

If you were able to blow a shim out of the case with an airline, I'd suggest it wasn't fitted correctly, as it should be trapped behind the bearing.

I hope this helps without adding too much confusion.