Transfer box input oil seal sj410 1986

[SteveR]

Cold dark and lonely under here, Help needed please, Have started but a bit stuck

see pic for my set up, flange is blocked by spanner blocked by two nuts.

Sj not raised and no space for usual scaffold tube so so far unable to move nut
Do I need to "undo" punched nut tabs to stand any chance of moving nut, very little space to get at nut indents to straighten . Possible in limited space ?
Also input prop shaft is well in the way it seems for actually getting flange off.
Begining to think will be easier to remove t/box but how do you remove gear lever from t/box explanation welcome. After that seems like 2 more props, 3 mounting nuts , one electrical connector and the gear lever, is this correct ?
I am thinking that with t/box out I would be able to check out handbrake much easier.

What do you guys think.

Steve

[turbo-tom]

seems like 2 more props, 3 mounting nuts , one electrical connector and the gear lever, is this correct ?

yep that's sounds about right you dont need to take the gearleaver off just under the gear sticker gater in side and untwist the gear nob off just be careful when you take off the prop that goes from the back of the gearbox to the tranny box(short prop) that no oil will come out as it will make a mess!

[SteveR]

Decided to take the t/box out.

I could not budge the flange nut in situ so took the t/box out, next time will work out how to remove gear change lever as working alone was a bit difficult dropping box out with lever in.
To help the next guy, I had to remove rear prop shaft from sj as no room to remove shaft from back of brake drum ( no big deal just 4 nuts ). Leave gear box to t/box prop connected to gear box. Disconnect front prop shaft from t/box and rest on floor. You have to take out complete handbrake cable from lever back ( just a few clips on chassis and one split pin ). 1 electrical connector and speedo drive. Don't forget to drain t/box oil.
I did it alone without sj jacked up, there is enough room and the t/box is not too heavy to drop down without use of jacks etc. I'm no big bloke. ( Will see how I feel after trying to put it back alone ).

Obviously now have the prob of getting flange off without t/box locked in place, have seen DARRELL's fabrication here in tech section and hope it's ok to copy his design ( cheers darrell )( I will have to get someone to make it for me as have no way off making big centre hole , hopefully will be cheap here in Italy).

Anything else I should do whilst T/box out ?
Will continue the story when get the flanges off.

[Darrell]

I'm sure a bit of angle iron would do the job and be cheap.
Here's the workshop page on the lever removal.

[SteveR]

Update

Thanks Darrell for helping out, see pics for my simple interpretation, it has worked well on flange and drum brake.
also thanks for gear lever info, glad I've looked inside, the ball seating rubber seal thing was on its last legs and if any had fallen in ???. Dead easy job for anyone to check from inside the sj .

Take a look at pic of drum handbrake , first time off in 27 yrs and like new inside, how happy am I.
The input oil seal is out but in my rush I attacked it right in place where all the numbers were, looks like it says Koyo ????? CR 8 MHSA 38 60. What does all this mean, looks like the measurements in mm but the CR & MHSA , are these important.
Here in Italy will be going to a agricultural supply shop so are all the letters and numbers important to have the same.

Should I insist on koyo or are there any other brands as good, any opinions.

Thanks
Steve

[Darrell]

To the best of my knowledge the input seal is part number 29971-80050 and is just a 38x60x8 R23 seal.
The output to the front is the same.
The rear output seal is 29972-80050 and is just a 38x50x8 R23 seal.
Any bearing dealer should be able to supply these and I'm sure if your agricultural dealer doesn't have them, he could soon get them. Chance's are they will be unbranded as nearly all the seals I use at work are.
The bush can either be purchased from Suzuki or an after-market poly bush upgrade.

[Darrell]

I can't believe how clean that brake assembly is

[turbo-tom]

That is very clean. All most surgical clean!!

[Darrell]

Why did I give the rear seal number
There is not a speck of oil leaking into the drum.












There was oil in the transfer box wasn't there .

[SteveR]

Just a little update.

T/box back in and leak free so far.

after failing to get oil seal in local parts shops just before resorting to internet order decided to ask at nearest suzuki dealership for oil seal and t/box lever bushing, both in stock and only approx £17 the pair for genuine suzuki jobs , cheaper than i could find on line here in Italy result.
also may be of interest is the part number and style of oil seal, bloke said that suzuki had issued an updated seal no. for sj, as you can see the seal has an extra lip to protect the bearing a little more, fits nicely behind flange.

To anyone who finds this post while thinking of changing seals this was 1st time I've done it, a socket set and basic tools plus make one steel bar with holes to hold flange and it's all pretty straight forward and possible alone without raising the sj.

thanks to all those that helped on the way.