Carb help

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Nibzzy01
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Carb help

Post by Nibzzy01 » Thu Dec 26, 2013 11:34 pm

Right folks I'm fairly new to all this sort of thing but iv just bought myself a sj 413 samurai it's a jx if that makes a difference it's had a fair few mods to it n I love it but it seems to have very little power the engine runs fine but I struggle to get much above forty mph and iv never got it into fifth gear lol it's fitted with 31" tyres and its got spoa I don't think I really want to go much faster than forty tbh as it feels like I'm I a boat but I just feel like I have to thrash it to get it to move years ago I had a webber carb on one and it made a hell of a difference to power I was wondering what model webber I would need or what other carb I could fit I know about the su's but they seem hard to get hold of I will eventually when funds allow swap to a Vit engine but at the minute I'm after a cheapish fix is there any i could source fairly easily from a scrappy im only doing green laning so not to worried about the extreme angles cutting the engine thanks also the steering is sloppy I can turn the wheel a quarter of a turn before anything happens is this normal ?????

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twiss
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Re: Carb help

Post by twiss » Fri Dec 27, 2013 12:10 am

You could try this nikki, I think it's the correct size to fit on the suzuki, know a few people that use them and they are basically a copy of a weber

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chevette-nikk ... 19e6972b5f


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'93 Suzuki Samurai Sport 1.6 16v SU. Virtual lift, spring under, 31s
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Jordi
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Re: Carb help

Post by Jordi » Fri Dec 27, 2013 7:49 am

Daihatsu charade, subaru justy and hyundai pony were all straight swaps. They are rare to find in scrappys now though.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

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Rhinoman
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Re: Carb help

Post by Rhinoman » Fri Dec 27, 2013 6:51 pm

twiss wrote:You could try this nikki, I think it's the correct size to fit on the suzuki, know a few people that use them and they are basically a copy of a weber
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chevette-nikk ... 19e6972b5f

Like any carb it will need to be correctly jetted.
2006 Jimny JLX+ 1.3 VVT
2000 Vitara 4u2 - Calmini 3+3, 33" MTs, 5:83 R&Ps, winch bumper, remapped ECU.
1986 Suzuki SJ413K - G16 conversion
1984 Suzuki SJ410 - Blitz

Nibzzy01
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Re: Carb help

Post by Nibzzy01 » Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:24 pm

Ok will that nikki be ok then and how do I jet it up

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Darrell
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Re: Carb help

Post by Darrell » Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:36 pm

You may find this useful for your steering problem..
http://forum.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/vi ... =15&t=3310
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Nibzzy01
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Re: Carb help

Post by Nibzzy01 » Fri Dec 27, 2013 10:44 pm

Cheers buddy

Nibzzy01
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Re: Carb help

Post by Nibzzy01 » Fri Dec 27, 2013 10:46 pm

Also I read on a post somewhere that if I had free wheeling hubs I could weld the front diff up is this true lol

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Jordi
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Re: Carb help

Post by Jordi » Sat Dec 28, 2013 5:36 am

Nibzzy01 wrote:Also I read on a post somewhere that if I had free wheeling hubs I could weld the front diff up is this true lol
I wouldn't advise it.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

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Edweird
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Re: Carb help

Post by Edweird » Sat Dec 28, 2013 2:57 pm

Nibzzy01 wrote:Also I read on a post somewhere that if I had free wheeling hubs I could weld the front diff up is this true lol
I suppose the theory is correct.
You can't use 4WD on the road because there's no centre diff and people use free wheeling hubs to disengage the hubs from the rotating parts of the axle to reduce rolling resistance and wear, but as the front diff is only really used off-road you could weld it up.
However, I think the gains from locking a front axle won't be nearly as much help as locking the rear, because when you accelerate, the nose gets lifted so on slippery surfaces you could easily spin both front wheels together, diff or no diff. That's based on what I saw and experienced at Wagtail.
Personally, based purely on the theory of how they work, I think a Powertrax Lockright Diff Lockers are pretty damn good. Basically, they allow one wheel to turn faster than the 'diff' and that's it, so in a straight line, or if your wheels start to spin a little bit, you've got a locked axle, but on the road when you're driving to or from an off-road site the outside wheel will overrun in corners.
There's three ways of doing things:

The right way,
The wrong way
And my way, which is like the wrong way but faster.

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