Samurai shell resto.

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ScottieJ
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Re: Samurai shell resto.

Post by ScottieJ » Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:55 pm

Try not to cut too much off at once, there's more chance of the body twisting out of shape slightly when not mounted to a chassis, I made that mistake and had to twist the back end back into line a bit :lol: probably less likely to happen with a tin top body though.

it's looking good though dude :thumbup:
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Jordi
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Re: Samurai shell resto.

Post by Jordi » Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:13 pm

Twisting doesn't seem to be an issue, it's still nice and rigid even when on the forks. I think being a tin top makes a big difference.

It's coming along Scott, still got loads to do, be buying some steel soon.

I'm slightly concerned about patches of body filler in the floor pan. They are on the inside but when I look on the underside I can't find any rust or rot. I'll grind out later to find out.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

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Re: Samurai shell resto.

Post by Jordi » Thu Jan 30, 2014 8:57 pm

Looks like I could be in for more workshop time tomorrow and saterday! Bonus!

Need to get some of those funny abrasive discs for my drill (like a plasticy gritty pad thing) they remove filler and rust and general crud but are gentle on the steel.

http://m.screwfix.com/p/surface-prepara ... 074?_bck=1
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

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Re: Samurai shell resto.

Post by donkeychomp » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:41 pm

I had a look at the link Jordi, if that's steel it will leave horrible little scratches all over the metal. I use an electric sander on bodywork then finish it off with varying bits of wet and dry.
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Jordi
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Re: Samurai shell resto.

Post by Jordi » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:43 pm

donkeychomp wrote:I had a look at the link Jordi, if that's steel it will leave horrible little scratches all over the metal. I use an electric sander on bodywork then finish it off with varying bits of wet and dry.
If it's the same as i used last time its like a plastic weave coated in a fine abrasive grit.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

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Re: Samurai shell resto.

Post by Jordi » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:46 pm

1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

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Re: Samurai shell resto.

Post by timwilks13 » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:19 pm

I've got one of them, don't put too much pressure on and they're fine, always find I use my flappy paddle as preference mind.
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Re: Samurai shell resto.

Post by dan_2k_uk » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:27 pm

I had some of those in angle grinder variety. Ripped the old paint and underseal off for the VL in no time!
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Re: Samurai shell resto.

Post by donkeychomp » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:39 pm

yep, they work just fine!
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Re: Samurai shell resto.

Post by turbo-tom » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:40 pm

ive always used flap disc failing that ill just get the air sander out.
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