Restoring a SJ van body.

[donkeychomp]

Rust is a bit of a no brainer, just make sure you get rid of all of it so you can see good clean metal underneath/around the affected area. Use good quality rust killer on it even if you think it's all gone and then prime over it as soon as possible so it doesn't come back. Filling and sanding down is just a question of patience and practice! Even if you are sure it is as smooth as possible spray black primer over it to highlight any imperfections. You'll get the hang of it!

[HuwJones]

I had a stroke of good luck tonight. Let me explain.
My primary job is a Machinist/Welder/Fitter on the Ffestiniog Railway, my second job is I'm a Platoon Commander and Sargent Instructor in Clwyd and Gwynedd Army Cadet Force. Tonight was out parade night and one of the cadet's father came in to discuss the progress his son is making.
After discussing what he came there for, he asked me if it was my SJ outside. I said it was and we then started talking about off-roading.
He told me that his day job is 4x4 recovery and repair. he then gave me a tour of his beefed up P-38 Range Rover (Which is one hell of a machine!). I told him that I had bought his van body and he said that he could repair it for me.
If I supply the materials and tools, he'll do it for £20 a day! He explained what he had a arch forming tool and I didn't need to buy repair panels as he could use sheet steel and form it onto shape. More discussions will continue during the week.
Huw

[donkeychomp]

£20 a DAY?? Holy shit. Go for it...

[HuwJones]

£20 a DAY?? Holy shit. Go for it...

That's what I thought!

Huw

[HuwJones]

Yesterday I had a good evening taking bits off. Wings now removed, clutch cable, master cylinder, dashboard, wiring loom, accelerator cable, bonnet release cable, steering components and seats. I still need to remove the headlights before scraping the wings.
Next step, is to remove the engine, gearbox, head lining, heater and the remaining brackets that held parts underneath the dashboard.
I've taken the plunge. Ordered a welder today. Will hopefully be here Tuesday. As I've been taking bits off, I've been making a note of the size of the bolts that held them. Then, as I'm getting to the house, brand new shiny stainless ones being ordered. I'm determined to replace all of the bolts that have the Philips screwdriver button head on them, Allen key button head stainless all the way! (Or ordinary hex head ones).
Now to find somewhere that makes body mount rubbers!
Huw

[Jordi]

Bit pricey though http://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?kw=suzuk ... body+mount

[HuwJones]

Bit pricey though http://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?kw=suzuk ... body+mount

I did see them. That's why I'm looking for somewhere else. In work, we use rubber washers that are laser cut to absorb the forces in the couplings between locomotives and carriages. I've sent a email to the company that makes them with a CAD file asking how much they would cost.
If they can't make them, I'd better invest in some hole punches and a rubber floor mat!
Huw

[Jordi]

I'm hoping between the 2 Zuks I can salvage a set of mounts as i really don't want to pay that much.

[Jordi]

Or there is this http://www.mountaingoatperformance.eu/s ... j-413.html

More realistic price and poly bush!

[Ladaman]

Then, as I'm getting to the house, brand new shiny stainless ones being ordered. I'm determined to replace all of the bolts that have the Philips screwdriver button head on them, Allen key button head stainless all the way! (Or ordinary hex head ones).

Be careful if changing load carrying fasteners to SS. SS ones are very weak compared to normal grade 8.8 and better bolts. They will be fine for doors and things like that.