Airbag warning light

[Nick40]

Yes clockspring or airbag seem to be the most obvious offenders neither of which I fancy poking about in with a screwdriver, I will have to wait until I can find someone who knows a bit more than me, Mmmm for now I can just sit imagining how much this is going to cost to sort out.

[Nick40]

anyone have any ideas how difficult replacing the clock spring and airbag would be at home and then what options I might have for resetting the ECU? are there any other things I should check out first like faulty connectors although this seems unlikely?

[Rhinoman]

Pull the fuse before you do anything and then check all the wiring and connectors for high resistance. Replacing the airbag and clockspring is very straightforward, its only a few bolts.

[Ginger_boy]

That is exactly what i had on my GV. Could be the clock spring but issues with that would also mean the horn and any other controls fitted to the steering possibly would not work. Once i realised that it was the drivers airbag which was at fault i did some internet searching on the boy racer sites as they still seems think a tiny steering wheel is better than the ones the manufacture installed and therefore need to bypass/substitute the air bag. So it seems a 3.3ohm resistor is what is required to bypass the drivers airbag for the Grand vitara if you have the manual it talks about checking resistances with the test box plugged in and tells you what resistance you should have. I got brave isolated the air bag system unscrewed the airbag disconnect it, replaced it with the resistors, reinstated the system and hay presto airbag system warning lights flash's 6 times then went out perfect. Just for kicks i then re-isolated the system re plugged the airbag back, de-isolated and all was well. I may have just by disconnecting and then reconnecting fixed it but its been ok now for a couple of months. Ebay sells the resistors or maplins for a 1/8 or 1/4 watt. Big word of caution do all disconnection's and reconnections whilst the system is isolated don't pass voltage through the airbag (resistance/continuity check) don't drop it. Hope this gives you some info as possible diy fix

[Nick40]

Thanks for that Ginger_boy, sounds like sound advice, I think I will start by disconnecting the airbag and plugging it back in to see if the connector is good, then move on from there, the horn works fine as do all the other column switches so maybe the airbag itself is the culprit, just one question, please excuse my stupidity, when you say isolate the airbag, do you mean just whip the fuse out? thanks Rhinoman, I think I will try and tackle this myself if you say its not too difficult, how do I remove the airbag?

Cheers

Nick

[Ginger_boy]

Yep whip fuse out let it discharge the system for ten mins. There are two torx screw which are underneath two plastic plugs on the steering wheel at the side. They are a little bit of a fiddle to get out need a twisting pulling action to fully loosen the air bag. The screws have a lead in which has to clear the airbag tags before it can be removed. The air bag connectors have a locking method which you unclip then you can pull the connectors apart.

[Nick40]

Thanks for all your help everyone, today I have isolated the airbag system and taken the drivers airbag out, Thanks Ginger_boy. Put it all back together really just to familiarize my self with the inside of the steering wheel and check all the connectors are ok.

Its all back together now and still giving me the Driver airbag resistance high, so next plan is to remove the airbag again and replace it temporarily with a 3.9 ohm resistor, apparently resistance should be between 1.9 and 4.5 ohms, if this rectifies the problem then I will know its the airbag and can replace it at my leisure prior to my MOT, if not then is more likely the squib, anyway that the plan of an electrical half whit, any one got any thoughts?

[Darrell]

I'm sure you have this from the link Rhinoman gave you......
But for those following with interest (I'm one ) here is code 21.

[Ginger_boy]

Sounds like a plan substitute air bag for resistor and if it is the air bag it should clear. One thing that does cross my mind did you recheck the code using the test connector as it only gives you the last reported problem could be something else now. There is also a code reset which if i is 1 second earth 1 second disconnect for 10sec on the test connector i.e on off 5 times) Don't know to much about the squib apart from i read in my GV manual when i was working out how to get the steering wheel off to inspect the squib you must not turn it to far as it will brake it. Can't remember what or why might be worth a read up in the rest of the manual.

[Nick40]

Hi Everyone, Thanks to all of you for your suggestions, just to update everyone just in case they have a similar issue, as you all know the fault code suggested that the drivers side airbag was at fault or at least the circuit was sending back high resistance so it was then just a case of finding out what component was at fault, I bought a 3.3ohm resistor 2 amp 0.25 watts from Maplins, crimped two very small female spade connectors like the ones they use on speakers and connected it to the airbag socket, essentially replacing the airbag socket with the resistor, this had no effect, so I connected it lower down behind the steering wheel cowling about knee high where the airbag diagnostic reader lives and hey presto normal light reading, so now I can replace the squib, knowing that this is definitely the offender, might come in useful if you want to disconnect your airbags and still pass an MOT, or as a home made diagnostics tool.