Hi Suzuki Club,
I am a new member from Norfolk.
I joined the club for some information if possible as I am thinking about buying a Suzuki, and yes I don't have a Suzuki yet.
I am looking at a Jimny as my wife only drives automatic cars but I do like the SJs that are usually up for sale on Ebay and other sites so I have a few questions.
If I were to buy an SJ I have been told they are hard to find parts for?
Is this the case and should I steer clear of SJs as my mechanical skills are limited.
Did Suzuki ever make an automatic version of an SJ?
If I go for a Jimny, is there anything specific I should be looking for on an automatic?
Sorry about the questions but I am a newbie and need some answers before I become a fully fledged Suzuki owner.
By all means send any messages to stevesaunders_59@yahoo.co.uk
Regards Stevo
Information Required
- Jordi
- Bow down before me
- Posts: 7535
- Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2009 2:35 pm
- Location: Darlington, Co. Durham
Re: Information Required
No automatic SJs in the UK to the best of my knowledge.
As for parts, body panels can all be bought brand new (not exactly cheap though) from Germany.
All service items (filters, discs, pads, bearings etc....) are usually easily available from any motor factors.
Rebuild kits for diffs, calipers, master cylinders are available from more specialist suppliers such as brakes international or jimny bits.
For larger items such as engines, axles, gearboxes, there is a good network of people on the forum selling spares.
In short, I have never struggled for any parts.
With regards to jimnys, I've never owned one so don't know. Sure a jimny owner will answer that bit soon enough.
As for parts, body panels can all be bought brand new (not exactly cheap though) from Germany.
All service items (filters, discs, pads, bearings etc....) are usually easily available from any motor factors.
Rebuild kits for diffs, calipers, master cylinders are available from more specialist suppliers such as brakes international or jimny bits.
For larger items such as engines, axles, gearboxes, there is a good network of people on the forum selling spares.
In short, I have never struggled for any parts.
With regards to jimnys, I've never owned one so don't know. Sure a jimny owner will answer that bit soon enough.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
- dan_2k_uk
- I spend far too much time on here
- Posts: 4924
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: Swindon, Wiltshire
Re: Information Required
I know nothing specific about auto jimnys but in general its worth checking for rust just inside the rear door and under the rear seats where the lap belts bolt to the floor.
Also they suffer with a bit of steering wobble if bushes or bearings are a bit worn.
Most of the time this seems to be caused by a combination of things and normally requires a full service of the front axle bearings and bushes to solve completely.
I second Jordis post with regards to SJ parts. Never had any problems sourcing new or used spares.
Welcome to SCUK.
Dan
Also they suffer with a bit of steering wobble if bushes or bearings are a bit worn.
Most of the time this seems to be caused by a combination of things and normally requires a full service of the front axle bearings and bushes to solve completely.
I second Jordis post with regards to SJ parts. Never had any problems sourcing new or used spares.
Welcome to SCUK.
Dan
Janspeed manifold, LWB Vit vented discs and calipers
Build thread -- Build photos -- HLA-Artwork
Coming soon: YJs, Trussed axles, Full float rear.
Re: Information Required
With all Jimnys you need to watch out for rust in the boot where the jack is kept and around the front headlights. I'm not aware of any specific issues with the automatics. 2005 on models have the VVT engine which is the most efficient.
The wobble usually presents itself between 40 and 50mph, it can be quite a cheap fix and therefore a good bargaining point. If it does wobble then check the wheels for any play that would suggest bad wheel bearings or kingpin bearings. Kingpin bearings are quite cheap, wheel bearings are relatively expensive on ABS models (£65 v £30).
The wobble usually presents itself between 40 and 50mph, it can be quite a cheap fix and therefore a good bargaining point. If it does wobble then check the wheels for any play that would suggest bad wheel bearings or kingpin bearings. Kingpin bearings are quite cheap, wheel bearings are relatively expensive on ABS models (£65 v £30).
2006 Jimny JLX+ 1.3 VVT
2000 Vitara 4u2 - Calmini 3+3, 33" MTs, 5:83 R&Ps, winch bumper, remapped ECU.
1986 Suzuki SJ413K - G16 conversion
1984 Suzuki SJ410 - Blitz
2000 Vitara 4u2 - Calmini 3+3, 33" MTs, 5:83 R&Ps, winch bumper, remapped ECU.
1986 Suzuki SJ413K - G16 conversion
1984 Suzuki SJ410 - Blitz
Re: Information Required
Welcome Stevo, I'm new here too, just got an SJ413, but had a very early 410 back in '85 (LHD import).
I've owned several classics over the years and the appeal of the SJ for me is, in no particular order: massive practicality, very capable, loads of character, fun (soft-top version), versatile (towbar fitted and have a good trailer), AND designed by the bloke that did Meccano (if you are old enough to remember that, the original red and green stuff I mean) - so very easy to work on.
If you can get over the lack of auto (or look into fitting a Vitara auto box but sounds daunting to me), then know where to look for rust, that is the main thing that brings them to their economic end I think. It's easy to look under as they have good clearance - floor areas and wheelarches go often. Chassis is strong but if there is a lot of rust on lower body areas I'd say leave it and keep looking.
One last thing I think about the SJs, very few standard original ones left - I aim to keep mine as close to original as possible and practical (I plan a carb switch to an SU but will keep all the original Aisin bits too). I reckon that straight original SJs will be rare and prices will rise accordingly, so with care you will get your money back, nil depreciation is a good thing
I've owned several classics over the years and the appeal of the SJ for me is, in no particular order: massive practicality, very capable, loads of character, fun (soft-top version), versatile (towbar fitted and have a good trailer), AND designed by the bloke that did Meccano (if you are old enough to remember that, the original red and green stuff I mean) - so very easy to work on.
If you can get over the lack of auto (or look into fitting a Vitara auto box but sounds daunting to me), then know where to look for rust, that is the main thing that brings them to their economic end I think. It's easy to look under as they have good clearance - floor areas and wheelarches go often. Chassis is strong but if there is a lot of rust on lower body areas I'd say leave it and keep looking.
One last thing I think about the SJs, very few standard original ones left - I aim to keep mine as close to original as possible and practical (I plan a carb switch to an SU but will keep all the original Aisin bits too). I reckon that straight original SJs will be rare and prices will rise accordingly, so with care you will get your money back, nil depreciation is a good thing
Straight n shiny '85 410 soft top.
Douglas
Douglas