Suzuki Club UK

Needs to have castor corrected radius arms or at the very least castor correction bushes to go with any suspension lift or it will drive like a dog on the road.

I really want to buy a jimny and pull out an angle grinder to see how much of a virtual lift you can do

Yeah I'd thought about that too Dan. As I plan to drive this thing into Europe, I would quite like it to be fairly road friendly. To be honest, I can't possibly see that it could be worse than my SJ and I'd happily drive that.

Scottie, it's possible I'll be conducting that experiment myself! You're welcome to bring your own angle grinder and we'll get creative.

I think, if anything, the problem is more likely to be that the tyres rub against the bottom of the rear of the arch near the bulkhead. From looking at some of the images I've seen of modded Jimnys, it almost looks like it would help if the front axle were moved forward an inch or so.

NylonAdmiral wrote:Yeah, I'm quite happy to trim/lift. Like I say, the ones I'm looking at both have 3in spring lift and 2in body lift and are both running 31's. However, just because someone has bolted the tyres on, doesn't mean everything's going to work properly.

If I bought an unmodified one, I was also interested to work out how much money I'd have to spend to get bigger tyres fitted properly.

For the springs, brake lines, body lift, castor correction arms & then the 33's it cost him around £1200-1500.

Springs £180+
Castor Correction Arms £220
Body lift £80
Brake hoses £80
Rocklobster £240
Tyres & Offset wheels £500

Roughly plus his own time, it catches on the bulk head mainly even though he's chopped it back and welded.

For what its worth, I've been running Jimny axles on my SJ for the past 3 years or so, with 31"s. If your familiar with SJ or Samurai axles the rear Jimny axle is almost the same.

Meaning that you can disk convert the same as SJ if you so wish. I've also purchased a full float kit for Jimnys from RSMFG along with a lockrite locker, so well priced parts are very much available.

As for the front, yes the shafts/CVs are smaller than Samurai. I've not popped a one yet, as stated, this will down to your driving. You can also remove the vacuum locking hubs in place for manuals easily.

From the axles I've used, the one to watch is the radius arm mounts, they seem to be prone to cracking.

Hope this helps, Matt

Thanks Boyes & Mattmiles,

After reading more info on here, I don't think I'll have any problems getting 31's on there.

Evening all, I run 31's on mine, have run 32's with no problem.
BUT I have a light right foot , and only do greenlaning, albeit of the more serious variety.
Currently got a Rob Storr 4:1, had a 6:1 on the last one.

3" lift ok with 32's if you massage the inner arch footwell with a BFH.

But mainly it depends what make if radius arms you run, castor bushes only really cope with a 2" lift. I have DG tuning arms that arnt much longer than standard, jimnybits and ORA arms are longer moving the axle forward a little away from the footwell. Currently have a heavy ARB front bumper with big winch which weighs front down meaning serious cut and shut to the footwell to clear the 31's.
Also need to trim the ARB bumper .

I've had 4 jimnys , never broke a shaft or diff, always run a lock right in the rear and a Rob Storr Box.

Link to lakes trip laning. Mine at the time was the green one with std arches running 750/16's , number plate BAA. Till it rolled.....
http://www.bits4vits.co.uk/store/lake-d ... g_247.html



Gary

my little chimpney runs on 31`s & plods me back and forth to work just fine... -