Suzuki Club UK

The caps have a little notch so they only fit properly one way otherwise yes you could just rotate the cap so you'll need to swap the leads

If that doesn't work I would re check the dizzy position while at tdc and make sure that you don't have it 1 tooth out on the gear etc.

It does sound like a timing issue to me.

ScottieJ wrote:The caps have a little notch so they only fit properly one way otherwise yes you could just rotate the cap so you'll need to swap the leads

If that doesn't work I would re check the dizzy position while at tdc and make sure that you don't have it 1 tooth out on the gear etc.

It does sound like a timing issue to me.

ok sort of get it now. when you say the order to swap the leads to... is that relating to the order in which the leads are plugged into the cap ??

Yeah time your engine up to tdc and pop the cap off, note where the rotor arm is in relation to the fitted cap and the HT lead in that position should either be going to number 1 or 4. If its at number 1 then work around the cap clockwise 1,3,4,2 of that doesn't work then swap them 180 or vice versa.

Hope that helps

ScottieJ wrote:Yeah time your engine up to tdc and pop the cap off, note where the rotor arm is in relation to the fitted cap and the HT lead in that position should either be going to number 1 or 4. If its at number 1 then work around the cap clockwise 1,3,4,2 of that doesn't work then swap them 180 or vice versa.

Hope that helps

Thanks very much, i will give it a go tomorrow and will let you know. fingers crossed haha

Just been to have a quick look now and i had all of the leads going to the right place with it being 1,3,4,2. when I moved it to TDC through the sight on the flywheel whole the distributor arm was pointing to No1 lead. I swapped the leads so 4 would TDC and then 2,1,3. I proceeded to start and engine splutted but didnt start.. this is progress on what i had before...

i have read something about the timing needing to be 10 degrees out but i am not sure what this means or how i go about doing it. i have looked though previous threads in the electrical section which was rely helpful with the images.

any help much appreciated.

Just been to have another look after work. still no luck :( I tried the leads as they are labelled on the dizzy cap. when doing this the arm inside the cap was pointing towards number 1 on the cap which I had plugged into number 1 cylinder. This didn't work :(

I then tried by having number 4 lead first and this didn't work either. I then repositioned the leads back to as marked on the cap and took the whole distributor of and repositioned the arm so that TDC was starting on lead number 4. this also didnt work. I then swapped the leads around so that the cycle started with 4,2,1,3 and this didn't work either. it seems i have tried every possibility and still no luck :(

HELP :( haha

I had just typed the following before your last reply as I think you were very close before you just pulled other out and moved it again



Have you kept the dizzy loose so you can twist is as you try to start it, you could perhaps be just slightly out or even 1 tooth out on the dizzy. if you can't get it to start by adjusting the position of the dizzy as it is then carefully pull the dizzy out and refit it 1 tooth back (anticlockwise) and try again.

It should be set to 10 degrees btdc but it will run as long as its close, you just adjust it to that after it has warmed up using a timing light.

ScottieJ wrote:I had just typed the following before your last reply as I think you were very close before you just pulled other out and moved it again



Have you kept the dizzy loose so you can twist is as you try to start it, you could perhaps be just slightly out or even 1 tooth out on the dizzy. if you can't get it to start by adjusting the position of the dizzy as it is then carefully pull the dizzy out and refit it 1 tooth back (anticlockwise) and try again.

It should be set to 10 degrees btdc but it will run as long as its close, you just adjust it to that after it has warmed up using a timing light.

yer i kept it loose and went from the left side to the right moving it on each try and still didnt get anything :( starting again should I start with all of the leads as they are labelled on the cap or shall i have it so that number 1 on the cap is lead number 4 and so on. also should the arm inside the cap be pointing towards number 1 on the cap or number 4 on the cap at TDC. to find TDC at the moment i am using the viewing hole on the side of the flywheel where it is marked with a T. how far before the T (tdc) is BTDC which is used for timing?

What you want to do is... take number 1 spark plug out... then put your finger over it, and turn the engine round with a spanner until you feel it pushing against your finger

this means its on the exhaust stroke... then poke a screwdriver into the cylinder through the spark plug hole

As you turn the engine over further, the point where the screwdriver sticks up highest should be TDC

This should correspond with a mark on the crankshaft pulley matching up with a mark on the engine

Then make sure your rotor arm is pointing at the 1st (top) HT lead... That should be about it to get it started?

you will need a timing light really... connect it to HT lead 1, then with the engine running flash it on the flywheel inspection port... then you should adjust the distributor so it shows at the correct TDC on the flywheel... i think 10* for a 1.3 and 8* for a 1.6... could be the other way around though.

Still, the engine should start by that point anyway

Another quick note, I dunno if it gets driven hard, but my mate managed to slip his cambelt 4 teeth.... that caused the engine to shoot fuel back out of the carb, so thats worth checking if nothing else works

As he says to start from scratch I'm just crap at explaining things in writing