Suzuki Club UK

Yea, will do. I think the welder got a problem too though. It sputters, like the feed isn't even, and you can't really get an even flame bow, so crap and sparks are flying everywhere. It's too big a machine I think, might try with some smaller gear

I have decided to go for a total strip . not sure if I will remove the engine of the frame, but this is what i have done And this is where it has ended up might bolt it on, and leave it there And I wrapped it all up, to prepare for the rain I also decided to clean the whole frame, paint it, and paint all parts that can be easily painted, so I removed the rear propshaft, and painted it in hamerite So I was just wondering what other people have used to paint their frame? What did scottie use? because his looked superb I remeber from pics I saw

Looks good have u put a primer on the prop before hammerite as hammerite chips of after a period of time
I wire brushed my whole underneath and then waxoiled it as I didn't take the body offf

I would do what scottie and Dan done

I used a 1k etch primer and synthetic paint on my chassis, came up good but you need to make sure you get every last bit of crap off the chassis otherwise the primer reacts and lifts, good thing is though once it has reacted it pulls all the crap off with it that it reacted with and comes off easy with a wire brush attachment on your grinder/drill it's the same as what I used for the body. The underside of the body was primed with anti-rust primer and then I used tetrosyl tetra Schutz

And thanks

Oh and as for the welder, just a cheapish gas mig will do, dont get a gasless one! for bodywork and light fabrication you can get away with a 130A mig but obviously if you want to do more fabrication with thicker steel a higher rated one would be better, Mines 180A.

Welding. If you can't atleast bodge your way through don't buy a suzuki, lol. It's not my strongest point but nothigs fallen off yet.

I'm fine with thicker stuff like plate and box section. I hate doing panels. It's so time consuming just doing a half an inch at a time, then when you get it wrong and either burn through or get a massive blob you've got to grind down... Aargh!!!!!

One of those things where practice is definately required. Looks like you've got your hands full now with the body off. Glad the carb worked too.

Jordi

I was painting mu propshaft, when I found out one of the UJ's is shot. I replaced it just before, and found it was indeed shot. this was what i pulled out all needle bearings came out, one was greased, one was rusty, and one was clean, the last one had ground the needles into little bits, no wonder it didn't move properly

Also, I couldn't quite get the circlips in, as the new ones were fatter than the old ones, so I just put the old ones back in, worked a treat

That is one hell of a labour of love. Keep it up matey!

Alex

I figured that since I don't need as a daily runner, i have time to do things properly, and make it all look the part, so might as well go the full mile, and do it all properly.

Every one, thanks for all the helpfull info and support so far, keep it up !

I still can't believe the way one of the bearings was full of shrapnel. I've never seen anything like it. Closest is one shattered bearing on a bicycle crank.

Guess it was still the original bearing

I took my T case off, and forgot to drain the oil . I had put it down in the garage, and when I came back two days later, there was a puddle of oil around it, and I could tell the oil had leaked out past the gear lever . Is this okay, or do I need to replace some seals?