Suzuki Club UK

Try not to cut too much off at once, there's more chance of the body twisting out of shape slightly when not mounted to a chassis, I made that mistake and had to twist the back end back into line a bit probably less likely to happen with a tin top body though.

it's looking good though dude

Twisting doesn't seem to be an issue, it's still nice and rigid even when on the forks. I think being a tin top makes a big difference.

It's coming along Scott, still got loads to do, be buying some steel soon.

I'm slightly concerned about patches of body filler in the floor pan. They are on the inside but when I look on the underside I can't find any rust or rot. I'll grind out later to find out.

Looks like I could be in for more workshop time tomorrow and saterday! Bonus!

Need to get some of those funny abrasive discs for my drill (like a plasticy gritty pad thing) they remove filler and rust and general crud but are gentle on the steel.

http://m.screwfix.com/p/surface-prepara ... 074?_bck=1

I had a look at the link Jordi, if that's steel it will leave horrible little scratches all over the metal. I use an electric sander on bodywork then finish it off with varying bits of wet and dry.

donkeychomp wrote:I had a look at the link Jordi, if that's steel it will leave horrible little scratches all over the metal. I use an electric sander on bodywork then finish it off with varying bits of wet and dry.

If it's the same as i used last time its like a plastic weave coated in a fine abrasive grit.

These things http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewit ... 1220495894

I've got one of them, don't put too much pressure on and they're fine, always find I use my flappy paddle as preference mind.

I had some of those in angle grinder variety. Ripped the old paint and underseal off for the VL in no time!

yep, they work just fine!

ive always used flap disc failing that ill just get the air sander out.