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Rust...
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:14 pm
by Matt
I have another question for you guys, this is the only bit of rust on my sj and it's starting to bug me, I don't really want it to get any worse!
I need some ideas from you guys on how to sort it
Thanks in advance
Re: Rust...
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:43 pm
by Jordi
Re: Rust...
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 9:04 pm
by Matt
Thanks jordi It runs a cross all three panels and is mainly on the bulkhead so I thought it would look a bit messy to cut it out and replace it? I'd like it to look as neat as possible but I'm no master fabricator?
Re: Rust...
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 10:19 pm
by donkeychomp
If you can't weld, try cutting away all the dead metal, slap loads of rust killer on the exposed clean metal and paint over it. Then use fibreglass (it's strong) to patch up the hole you now have. Finish it off with filler and the job's a good 'un.
Re: Rust...
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 10:31 pm
by Matt
I've never welded an sj body before but done other welding on thicker metal, would it be worth a practice on some thin off cuts?
Re: Rust...
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 10:43 pm
by shredder
yes always worth a practice thin stuff Is a whole other ball game need to take it easy to avoid blowing holes in it, but with care i've even repaired bodywork with an arc welder lol
Re: Rust...
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 11:30 pm
by twiss
I'd never really welded until a couple of years ago and Ive managed this recently.
If I wasn't quite as lazy and crippled I would probably have it done by now
Im by no means a fabricator so Im sure if you've done some proper welding before you can do better
edit - yes there are some holes in it still lol
Re: Rust...
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 11:37 pm
by Jordi
I'm no welder / fabricator. Filler and paint hide a multitude of sins.
Re: Rust...
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 11:42 pm
by ScottieJ
Trick with Sj bodywork is to use the mig on the lowest possible setting with 0.6mm wire and tack tack tack allowing plenty of time to cool between welds, taking it slow is essential as it's really easy to blow through and to warp SJ panels with too much heat.
Careful prep also helps, don't use something that will remove any steel thickness while cleaning the paint off, fine grade flap disc, brass wire brush wheel or poly abrasive discs are my preferred choice.
Then take your time to make all the repair panels fit as well as possible, I like to butt weld all my repairs in, the closer the fit the less likely you are to blow through.
Re: Rust...
Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 6:31 am
by mike harris
Il cut a corner of the next Suzuki I strip, then you can put the whole corner on, remind me in a week or two.
Mike