Bleeding /replacing brake fluid

[dominic]

Hey all,

I need to replace my brake fluid, as it hasnt been changed for hell of a long time,

Just how easy/hard is it to do, im fairly ok mechanical wise, i just replaced the front brake discs,and im going to put new pads on as well.

I know the fluid needs to be changed as i have to use a bit more effort on the brake pedal and if im correct its been over 10 years since the brake fluid was changed.

I do have the haynes book , but as you all know its not much to really go by.
Any help , info will be greatfully appreciated.

Dom

[Henry]

Take the lid off your fulid... Crack all the nipples... Let it all drain out (be careful it is corrosive)

Then do all the nipples up, crack the rear passenger, fill it up and let gravity do the work

[Angie]

Nooooo henry, gravity won't eliminate the air in the system!!!!! tut tut, Your need someone else to push the brake pedal down as your at the brake nipple, start with the cailper furthest away from the master cylinder. Tell the person to pushes the pedal down as you open the nipple, then get them to hold it down till you close the nipple, repeat this several times, to remove air bubbles, should feel the pedal getting firmer, you do this to the other wheels , (remember furtherest from master cylinder first then work your way to the closest). keep master cylinder cap off, and keep a eye on the level as your are doing this, you may need to top op the fluid as you go. Brake fluid is hygroscopic ( absorbs water) with lowers boiling point causing brake fade and corrosion. so needs changing about every 2yrs. Hope this is of some help

[Pugsley]

Don't forget to also open the nipple on the Pressure Limiting Valve which is very skinny and easy to snap if it's corroded in - from memory it's an 8mm ring spanner to do this. I was concerned it would break so I removed it and stripped it down - cleaned it and using a blowtorch, applied some subtle heat to the nipple whilst applying progressive spanner pressure. It came undone all of a sudden and I thought I'd snapped it - but luck was on my side, do not apply heat to the valve without removing the inner parts - you will destroy the seals!

Some people advise that the rear brake cylinder pistons should be pushed fully in and tied closed for bleeding with a cable tie - not sure on the need to do this but I did do it. Don't be alarmed if you have to bleed more than once! I'm not sure what Suzuki you have, but guessing that it's an SJ, the valve I'm referring to is located forward of the right hand rear wheel bolted to the inner face of the chassis - just follow the brake pipe to the rhr brake drum and follow it working towards the front.

Finally - keep everything clean, wipe the bleed nipples clean before starting and when you finish, make sure you have some clear bleed tube which is a snug fit over the nipples, use a clean glass container to catch the displaced fluid when you bleed and don't be tempted to reuse the displaced fluid.

[dominic]

Ok all,

Thanks for the advice,
I've been so busy, so i am going to work on the brakes tomorrow (sunday).

I have cleaned up and put new piston seal kit on my spare set of calipers for the front wheels, and of course i will be putting new set of brake pads on, so off with the old calipers and on with the refurb ones, then a full bleeding of the brakes system.

Then a test drive to make sure everything is fine.

Dom

[dominic]

Just an update,

i put on my refurbed calipers, and bleed the brakes, much better now, not as difficult as i thought it would be.

Many thanks for the replies folks.

Dom