Suzuki Club UK

Asking as a complete newbie to body panel repair (as hoping to get both rear sides sorted next year probably by a small body shop).

What is the process of how a new complete panel (as pic below) is welded on to SJ nearside rear arch?

I'm guessing....

1. Remove rear bumper/lights and stock plastic arch extensions

2. Remove the passenger seat/seatbelts

3. Remove all rear interior bits, ply floor etc in the area (no side glass or seats in mine)

4. Angle grind out the existing panel the same size as new panel?

5. Tack weld new panel in situ and I'm guessing. weld new infill parts to join outer skin to inner wheel arch?

6. Infill weld all seams

7. Grind flat all proud welding

8. Infill old to new joins with body filler

9. Prepare and paint etc

Also, I assume the offside would be the same apart from all the fuel system related parts?

Thanks in advance!

Sounds about right for me, are they spot welded on? As you'll only need to drill them out, and then plug them after.

I suppose then it's the obvious stuff like make sure theres nothing around that area to catch fire, so a fire extinguisher at the ready, and on the fuel cap side, you might need to remove the neck (if they unbolt from the tank) or maybe even remove the tank?

If it's just the arches that need doing then personally i would avoid trying to get a complete panel like that fitted. it's loads more work than it looks to fit a panel that size.

Can you post some pics of the areas that need repairing.

Thanks guys.

The SJ is under cover at the moment, so see pic below.

I'd like to replace all sheet metal in the area roughly shown in red, basically 5" of arch and end corner.
I was going to just get the corner end pieces, (see pic) but I'm thinking 'might as well do the whole job properly in one go.

I guess it would still be better to order the complete panel/s and cut up as needed?

It honestly all depends how bad yours is, sj panels are so easy to warp during repairs, even when taking your time. Repairing by cutting along the red line in your drawing would be a very hard repair to do without warping the panel, it would actually be easier to fit the whole repair panel, there would be less welding involved.

Where would the panel coming from out of interest? Some companies repair panels aren't very good.

If you get some pics up I can advise the best course of action.

Panels from Germany Scottie, I just noticed they sell a Cabrio panel, same price, but being smaller might be less work to fit?



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253192447475

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272864100707

http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/pasvahl-autoteile

Some of the German panels are terrible, unfortunately it's a bit hit or miss so you don't know until they arrive.

I would honestly only go for the complete panels as a very last resort. If your arches are as good as i think they are going to be i.e any rot is below the swage line then it's going to be much easier to just repair them in small sections.

If it's still like this on both sides then I wouldn't even slightly contemplate cutting the whole panel out, it's asking for trouble and will never look as good again.

Both front wings are perfect, having been replaced in 2013. Both rear wings have some rot behind plastic arch trims, plus surface bubbling, bottom corner panels are alu plates riveted on.

As the majority of the work is needed below the swage line I would only repair it where it’s needed. There will be a lot less risk of panel distortion that way. Then just the rear corner repair panels would be perfect. You could always get the complete repair panels and just use them to repair the body where it’s needed but I still think trying to tie in a complete panel would be hard to get done properly and well. It would also be a lot easier to fit a whole panel if yours wasn’t a van back as there would be less butt welding involved.

I did similar on my fathers maruti and it came out really nice, I made most of the repair panels myself and used a good arch as a donor for some sections.

I know a lot of people in the body shop trade and you have to be very careful who you pick nowadays when welding is involved.

Thanks for all the advice Scottie, I'll probaly end up getting the whole panels then and cut as required.
With a rot free and below swage line I could go flare-less, I kinda like the naked arch look!


My SJ when just bought.