Suzuki Club UK

There seems to be a lot of confusion over carburettors,,.in my opinion,, webber 32/36 etc are
not the ideal carb for off roading due to the fact. the secondary choke overlaps the addaptor casting. but main proplem, is they stall going up steep climbs, due to the design of the fuel supply system. but on saying that, they are a good replacment for the origanal carb.
The other opption is the good old SU. this has to be the best bet, nothing really to go wrong, until (theres always a catch) they ice up. due to being on a long intake, fuel/air mixture is taken in much colder than outsde temp, thus causing ice build up, air cooled volkswagens suffer with this proplem also. its just a case of fabricating a warm jacket for the manifold,, (i think henry has done one on his).
I saw a thred somewere, which looked really intesting, the carb of an early 1.8 subaru fits more or less straight on a suzuki manifold. but this only applies to vit 1600s ..
what ever you do, make sure your running the right jets/needles otherwise your wasting your time and fuel. ps.. if your running fuel injection,, leave it on!!
if your running the original carb and its fine,, leave it alone, they do work well. the thing that lets them down is the auto choke, which can be changed for a manual convertion..

andy

Ive heard of this mythical manual choke conversion ! Where can you get one from any ideas?


rich

if youlook at the i zook site, http://www.izook.com/tech/ theres a few altenatives,, like the one below also a carb off a Hyundai pony will fit....As far as the choke converstion go"s,
im going to make my own.. just need to get to our local scrapyard and collect a few parts.
Andy.


Daihatsu Charade 3 Cylinder Carb Swap

I was surfing the Internet on the subject “Suzuki Samurai technical” and I found this article on swapping carburetors originally written in Dutch.

As most of us know, the stock carburetor of Suzuki is a big pain in the @$$. I read this article over and over, and the plan occurs to me to do the same. I could have bought the new carb from a salvage-yard, but in Holland we have an ad-site, called “Marktplaats”, Market-place that is, and there I saw the ad from a lady, offering an old Daihatsu Charade that failed the MOT, and the lady found it too expensive to repair this car, so she offered it for sale, for someone who needed Charade-parts. I bid 25 Euro for the complete carburetor, and a few days later she answered by email, she was willing to sell.

We made an appointment, and I went to her village and started to dismantle the carburetor and the choke-cable from the Daihatsu. This carburetor has no automatic choke, so I took the choke cable as well. I also took the rubber ring from under the air cleaner, you will need this again.

I knew once I removed the air cleaner top there was no going back for me. LOL! Luck was with me, for the Charade-carburetor does fit the manifold without any changes! Just a fresh gasket and on we go.

The red arrow, figure 1, is the spot where the choke cable has to go, the arrow, figure 2, is the spot for the accelerator-cable. The end of the accelerator cable holds a mounting piece that will not fit the original place, you have to drill the hole wider, up to 8.5 millimetre. Then screw the locknut of the accelerator cable all the way down, it will just fit snugly. If necessary, bend the bracket back a few millimetres.
I had to make an adapter piece to accommodate the water hoses. I took two small pieces of rubber hose, pushed them over the tubes, and over this all goes the water hoses on both brass tubes, see the figures 1 and 2.
To install the choke cable, use the rubber grommet in the firewall to push the cable into the motor-compartment and on to place the Daihatsu choke cable in its original place. Better not cut the cable, a wide loop under the rim of the window makes the cable to operate smoother.

The stock-carb is mounted with long bolts going through the carb housing, this won’t work with the Daihatsu carb, you have to take 4 M8-studs, about 30 mil long and screw them in the manifold. Then place the carb in place, accompanied with the new gasket, lay under each nut A ring, and you will find that the nuts on the left are easy to access, but to reach the others you have to remove the stuff that is in the way. The nut on the back is easily accessible with a mini-socket wrench. Just be patient and fiddle a little, it will work.

After that you have to wiggle the carb breather hose back in place. It is narrow, but it will fit. After this, it is a matter of connecting the petrol line and the vacuum hoses. The petrol-intake on the carb has to turn 180 degrees around to accommodate the petrol line coming from the back. On the engine-side on the foot of the carb is the advance of the ignition, 2 and 3 on the picture goes to the manifold. What is left has to be closed off, using a little piece of hose with a little bolt screwed in to it. The Samurai air cleaner will fit like if it was the Sam-carb, with the Daihatsu-rubber ring under it, so after a good few hours your done!



Then there is the great moment!

Pull the choke halfway. After a somewhat longer crank to fill the float bowl with petrol the engine starts, and runs surprisingly nice, just like any other car! Do not turn any adjusters, let it go until completely warm, then make if necessary adjustments. Most cases the only adjustment to make is the idle speed, 800 rpm.

Then your first drive, you will be amazed! No more hesitating, no more of the problems with the Sammy carb!




10/03/05 22:07

^^^^^ that last article i have an old paper print out off the original suzukiclubuk site.
Very interesting read but trying to find a charade is like hens teeth. Im going to put my su back on i think but need to find a airfilter adapter from a v8 rover.


thanks for the info though very informative.



rich

lifted from difflock stickies but some useful reading regarding carbs

Aisin carb strip down and clean guide
http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=7948

SU Carb Conversion
http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?p=165433
http://suzuki.off-road.com/suzuki/artic ... ?id=277598

Subaru Carb Conversion
http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?p=177530#177530

Weber carb anti-stall mod:
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,11445.0/all.html
http://suzuki.off-road.com/suzuki/artic ... ?id=277598

im sure with some imagination, having a wonder round the breakers there are other carbs that will fit, im still learning my way around suzukis, as i spent the last 15 or more years specialising in volkswagen air cooled. But like i said, its important to have a carb set-up corectly.

My SJ is running the original carb and autochoke setup which does work well at the moment as the milage on the old Gal is under 30k from new but would i gain anything from updating to the popular SU conversion it does seem like alot of money and at this moment in time while its running like a dream its not worth carrying the conversion out.I guess if it aint broke dont fix it comes to mind.

Rick

Rick,,, my sammy has a 1.6cc vitara engine, and still runs with a origanal carb and choke. this runs with no proplem. if at any time it were to play up, (spindle bushs wear allowing air leaks etc),, then i may look at replacing it. until then,, dont try to fix, what aint broke.
andy.

My carb setup

(for the su boys)

Has been running fine in the -14 conditions..

How about a Nikki carb, I have just fitted one and apart from throttle and choke cable its a direct fit, The one I got had come from a Beetle and runs fine so jetting must be about right. If you fit it so the float chamber is at the back apparently it will only give problems on steep decents which to me was better than stalling going up hill