Suzuki Club UK

I've got 2 days off next week and am hoping to make a start on removing the Samurais body to get it welded up! Usual rust on sills/behind seats/arches...........and so on.
Question is, Is it possible to do it in that time? does any one have a rough guide as to what needs to be disconnected and what doesn't? And What needs to be removed Apart from the obvious mounts etc!
Or is it case of stripping it completely first bagging and tagging everything, and then hopefully remembering how to put it back together!
I don't want to rush it as I really want to do a proper job so that it lasts, but if there are any hints and tips as to making the job a bit easier I would really appreciate it!

Just A pic of the near side sill as i know you guys and girls love photos!

take out all pedal conections and unbolt the brake asembly, take all body mounts off, remove all wiring looms/ disconnect them, disconnect speedo drive, take off gear lever boots, remove seatbelts I belive as they are bolted through the body, remove the handbrake cable.
It's really just going round to take everything off the body, and it shouldn't take more than half a day if everything goes alright, you need some other people to help lift the body though

I can have one off in half a day.

I would help but I'm busy till May 7th.

Will write you a guide in a bit.

Here is s vid of a 410 body coming off
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uC6ttwSZObo

Remove the airbox first if you have a standard one.

Un-plug: Headlights, side repeaters, horn, washer bottle, alternator, any redundant stuff that still goes to your inlet manifold, oil pressure switch, and starter. (Including any screwed earths)

Remove battery and tie the main positive and ground cables against engine if they are seperate from the rest of the loom. If not leave them for now and remove from the starter in a bit. (They will be easier to get to later)

Remove bonnet relese cable. The easy way is to just remove the 2 bolts and drop the whole clip out.

Now onto removing the front clip itself:

Remove the grill and undo the 2 bolts hiding down under the headlights, then remove the doors as the lower hinge bolts pass through the wings, now remove all other bolts, there are 2 that hold the brake line splitter block under the drivers arch, 3 under the rear of each arch that go into the body, 2 on each side behind the battery tray area, and 1 on each side inside the door jam. (Sometimes there is a tab that needs removing in the arch but most have rotted away.)

Now swear a lot while you wiggle it off.

Now whip off the bonnet, windscreen, and rear door.

Back to the engine bay.

If the main battery cables were connected to the loom now is the time to remove them from the starter.

Now remove the throttle cable, clutch cable, choke cable, disconnect the coil from the dizzy and the little earth from the dizzy housing, remove the 2 hoses that run through to the heater matrix from the water rail and inlet manifold, the reverse light switch cable, steering link, the 2 pipes out of the master cylinder, and anything else between engine and body I have missed.

Then remove the fuel filler guard and remove all the hoses under there.

Remove the gearstick and transfer stick gaiters and knobs. It is also easier to remove the body if you take the levers out. 3 bolts to pull the gear lever (be sure to leave it in neutral or it gets confusing) and the transfer box has a bayonet lock ring under the rubber dust guard.

Now hop underneath and remove the 4wd light switch cable and the speedo cable from the transfer box and disconnect the handbrake cable.

Now its time for the exciting stuff.

Get under there and remove the 8 body bolts: One under each front footwell, 4 behind the front seats, and 2 from above in the rear door jam.

Now get some burly mates round. It can be done with 2 people but I reccomend 3. (Especially if you opt to leave the windcreen and rear door on as the dont have to be removed but I would reccomend that too)

Pretty sure that is everything but I am writing on my phone from a lay-by and getting scared of loosing it all so will edit after a proof read.

Its not as bad as it sounds!

Dan

If you just unbolt the brake master cylinder and dissconect it from the pedal then you can just pull it out and don't have to then worry about bleeding the brakes when it all goes back together.

Oh yeah thats what I did. It was Trotters where we left it on the body for some reason.

Apart from that not bad for a phone written essay eh?

Exactly what I was looking for thanks dan, cant believe you wrote all that on your phone in a lay by? Am nervous about starting it but equally looking forward to the challenge! Starting to plan the 2 days so hopefully I won't get disturbed! Think it mite take me a bit longer than half a day though, will start a build thread with photos as soon as I get going! Wish me luck.

When i get the KJA on the road (taxed) i might whip the body off mine and put a floor in it.

See how yours goes first.