Samurai SJ413 clutch swap UPDATED
Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 1:03 am
Under the bonnet
Disconnect the battery
Remove the starter. It has two bolts, one has a thick wire attached to it, this os easiest to get to from underneath. It also has one wire clipped on and one bolted on. There are easiest accessed from the engine bay.
Inside
Unscrew the gear knob and unbolt and remove the gaitor
Unbolt and remove gear lever (not neccessary but can make it easier)
Underneath
Drain gearbox oil (not neccessary, makes it lighter, prevents spillage, when was it last changed?)
Unclip the reverse light wire from the loom. Its on a plastic plug.
Remove the crud guard off the front of the gear box 2 x 10mm bolts
Remove the front cross member
Remove the gearbox to t/box propshaft
Undo the clutch cable from the arm
Support the rear of the engine under the sump on a jack, its also advised to put a block behind the distributor wedged against the bulkhead so it doesn't bash about when the gear box drops off.
Unbolt the rear gear box mount (back of the gearbox, funny shaped rubber mount)
Now undo the gearbox to engine bolts
Easy stuff done.
Now you need to push the gearbox back to free it off the engine. I find it easiest to put the back towards the passenger rear and jiggle it till it comes through between drivers footwell and engine. Its out.
UPDATED BIT:- When you remove the box it might pull the two sleeves off the engine. These are two small cylinders approx 25mm x 13mm. Watch for them possibly dropping out. They are just a push fit back into two whole where the bolts go. Should be a tight fit but push in by hand DO NOT HIT WITH A HAMMER!
Remove old clutch. Bolts will be tight, just hold the ratchet firmly in place and bash the handle with your hand and it'll free them with out the fly wheel spinning.
New clutch in.
Tighten it up so you can just waggle the disc. Using a clutch alignment tool centre it to the pilot bearing and torque up the plate.
On the gearbox
Remove the clutch release bearing. It's held on a pin on one side. It just twists and drops off, replace this with a new bearing. They usually come pre greased but i always add more making sure in forced right into the bearing.
Force the gearbox back in and find a friend!
I found it a bitch to get the box back on as the spline weren't lining up. While one hold and jiggles the gearbox onto the engine the other needs to slowly turn the flywheel with a screw driver till the box slides upto the engine. The quickly bolt it to the engine as its still full of oil and gets heavy when you've held it a while.
Bolt everything else up and adjust it.
Bit iffy but almost complete. I'll tidy it up when i'm home and add photos.
Disconnect the battery
Remove the starter. It has two bolts, one has a thick wire attached to it, this os easiest to get to from underneath. It also has one wire clipped on and one bolted on. There are easiest accessed from the engine bay.
Inside
Unscrew the gear knob and unbolt and remove the gaitor
Unbolt and remove gear lever (not neccessary but can make it easier)
Underneath
Drain gearbox oil (not neccessary, makes it lighter, prevents spillage, when was it last changed?)
Unclip the reverse light wire from the loom. Its on a plastic plug.
Remove the crud guard off the front of the gear box 2 x 10mm bolts
- image.jpg (2.21 MiB) Viewed 9778 times
Remove the gearbox to t/box propshaft
Undo the clutch cable from the arm
- image.jpg (1.58 MiB) Viewed 9778 times
Unbolt the rear gear box mount (back of the gearbox, funny shaped rubber mount)
- image.jpg (2.56 MiB) Viewed 9778 times
- image.jpg (2.57 MiB) Viewed 9777 times
Now you need to push the gearbox back to free it off the engine. I find it easiest to put the back towards the passenger rear and jiggle it till it comes through between drivers footwell and engine. Its out.
UPDATED BIT:- When you remove the box it might pull the two sleeves off the engine. These are two small cylinders approx 25mm x 13mm. Watch for them possibly dropping out. They are just a push fit back into two whole where the bolts go. Should be a tight fit but push in by hand DO NOT HIT WITH A HAMMER!
Remove old clutch. Bolts will be tight, just hold the ratchet firmly in place and bash the handle with your hand and it'll free them with out the fly wheel spinning.
- image.jpg (1.91 MiB) Viewed 9777 times
Tighten it up so you can just waggle the disc. Using a clutch alignment tool centre it to the pilot bearing and torque up the plate.
- image.jpg (2.08 MiB) Viewed 9777 times
Remove the clutch release bearing. It's held on a pin on one side. It just twists and drops off, replace this with a new bearing. They usually come pre greased but i always add more making sure in forced right into the bearing.
Force the gearbox back in and find a friend!
I found it a bitch to get the box back on as the spline weren't lining up. While one hold and jiggles the gearbox onto the engine the other needs to slowly turn the flywheel with a screw driver till the box slides upto the engine. The quickly bolt it to the engine as its still full of oil and gets heavy when you've held it a while.
Bolt everything else up and adjust it.
Bit iffy but almost complete. I'll tidy it up when i'm home and add photos.
I've got to do karis's but as we're rebuilding an engine to go in we'll be doing the clutch at the same time so i could do an engine out version as well.