Suzuki Club UK

so, don't even ask too much, but here's the story. I threaded the breather on my t box, and managed to get a little swarf in the box( I did put some rag into the box first though!). I also noticed that the inner gear lever boot on it wasn't fitting properly so took the lever out to clean everything, and again dropped a load of crap into the t box. I then put some compressed air through the breather to try blow everything out, but a shim blew out at the rear output shaft

so the I decided to take the box apart to clean it properly. so two questions, does anyone know if I can just push that shim back in, and what is the best way to seal the box back up when I put it back together? is a liquid sealant best, or should I tap out a gasket out of some gasket paper?

any help much appreciated guys

If you mean sealing the sections of the Transfer box casing together gasket sealant should be fine.

If it's a shim then I would say yes, I presume it's not a tight fit? Shims are for clearance, they're not a seal so aslong as there's no obvious damage it should be fine.

With regards of the swarf personally I would flush the box through with oil, or run some oil in it and then after 10 miles if that drain it out & replace just to be sure, as long as they're not big chunks/they shouldn't damage it and drain plug should be Magnetic to catch swarf.

My opinion anyway.

so I took my box apart, and found that the needle bearings in the intermediate gear fell apart when I took them out. has anyone got any idea where i could get new ones from? the guy who serviced it before I owned it said he had replaced all the bearings before, except the needle bearings because he couldn't find them

If there is a paper gasket there now, I would rebuild with a gasket or adjust the shims on each shaft line accordingly and reduce the shimming by the thickness of a gasket. This is normally about 0.006" or 0.15mm.
If you don't do this and just rebuild without a gasket (if there was one fitted in the first place) there is a chance you will have removed the end float fron the gear shaft lines and you could overheat the bearings and cause them to fail.

A tip I once read on a forum written by Rockwatt, was build the unit without a gasket and shim so the shafts are set to about zero clearance. Once a gasket is fitted the float will then be about correct as the case will be the thickness of a gasket wider.

Not sure of needle roller brg details, but I'm sure this will be answered very soon.

Thanks for the info ladaman, I get your point. the t box was sealed with liquid gasket sealant, so I don't think I should have problems with my clearance. I was thinking, if I use gasket paper now, will the increased clearance in the tbox have any negative effects? (ie excessive play causing damage, gear chatter, etc)

Try "Googling" the part numbers for availability over there.
I have found a repair kit as I don't know what state the shaft is in.
http://www.4krawl-products.com/en/trans ... -kit-.html

The countershaft part numbers are the same for the 410 or 413 transferboxes.

I'd always ensure you have a little more rather than too little axial float on the shafts. Looking in the manual the tolerance for axial float for the shafts is 0.002"/0.006" (0.050.15mm).

Too much axial float will allow the shafts to shuttle a little when you go from acceleration to deceleration, but this should be nothing to worry about in a 20 year old gearbox. The gears will be fine.

I think you may need to check the float without a gasket.
Did the previous guy to have this gearbox apart adjust/set the end float, or did he just omit the gasket, and potentially tighten up the bearings?
If he did remove some shims, can you get hold of/make some more if you want to use a paper gasket?

If you were able to blow a shim out of the case with an airline, I'd suggest it wasn't fitted correctly, as it should be trapped behind the bearing.

I hope this helps without adding too much confusion.