Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
- Ladaman
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Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
More out of interest this question really.
I've fitted the drum brake back onto my 410 transfer box in preparation for when I do the rear disc conversion.
I've stripped and cleaned all the brake bits, and made a bracket to hold the cable outer near the handbrake, and an adapter piece to link the inner cable to my Sammi handbrake lever and adjusted the shoes as per the stickie. With all this done, I'm a little concerned there is still quite a few clicks of the handbrake to take the slack.
I'm puzzled as to how you would adjust the cable over time as it stretches on an original fitment 410. Has anyone got any pics, or can explain it?
I've fitted the drum brake back onto my 410 transfer box in preparation for when I do the rear disc conversion.
I've stripped and cleaned all the brake bits, and made a bracket to hold the cable outer near the handbrake, and an adapter piece to link the inner cable to my Sammi handbrake lever and adjusted the shoes as per the stickie. With all this done, I'm a little concerned there is still quite a few clicks of the handbrake to take the slack.
I'm puzzled as to how you would adjust the cable over time as it stretches on an original fitment 410. Has anyone got any pics, or can explain it?
YouTube
Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
- turbo-tom
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Re: Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
My tranny brake i have to pull the hand brake up a far bit to make it work i only use it for mr mot 9 times out of 10 i leave it in gear etc
have you read this it might be help might not be its about 3/4 down the page
http://forum.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/vi ... =14&t=2793
have you read this it might be help might not be its about 3/4 down the page
http://forum.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/vi ... =14&t=2793
Tom
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Ford Fiesta ST
- Jordi
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Re: Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
I've just done mine. Its the same. A lot of click to get it to work. And its still useless, i'm thinking about making another cable mount a bit further back from the handbrake lever so its tighter to start.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
- Ladaman
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Re: Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
Yeah I've read the stickie, and it does say there is a small amount of adjustment on the cable, but I cant think how, nor how the cable would mount.
The cable mount I've made was from flat plate, and where I've bolted it to had FAR too much slack in it. So I have bent mine back to tighten it up, but it seems a bit crap if the cable or 410 set up doesn't have any adjustment from original build.
The cable mount I've made was from flat plate, and where I've bolted it to had FAR too much slack in it. So I have bent mine back to tighten it up, but it seems a bit crap if the cable or 410 set up doesn't have any adjustment from original build.
YouTube
Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
- Jordi
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Re: Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
From what i can remember the transmission brake on my SJ is just as appalling.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
- Ladaman
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Re: Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
Let's hope Mr MOT man is in a good mood when I get around to taking it then.
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Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
Re: Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
I'll have a look at mu cable later on for ya, see how that is constructed. might shed some light on the matter.
okay, just had a look. there's no adjustment on the handbrake lever, no adjustment on the cable mounting point below the cab, and no adjustment on the brake drum. the only adjustable part is the shoe holder thingy in the drum, to compensate for different thickness pads. the only way i could imagine you could adjust it would be by making a sliding cable mount, or add some sort of spacer on the cable mount in the drum, so the cable doesn't sink all the way in if you get what I mean. if you want some pics of my standard setup, let me know, and I'll get some up for you
okay, just had a look. there's no adjustment on the handbrake lever, no adjustment on the cable mounting point below the cab, and no adjustment on the brake drum. the only adjustable part is the shoe holder thingy in the drum, to compensate for different thickness pads. the only way i could imagine you could adjust it would be by making a sliding cable mount, or add some sort of spacer on the cable mount in the drum, so the cable doesn't sink all the way in if you get what I mean. if you want some pics of my standard setup, let me know, and I'll get some up for you
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- Ladaman
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Re: Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
Thanks for the confirmation. Pretty poor design then.
If it's no trouble for you to do the pics it might be useful, just to see how Suzuki tackled it.
Hopefully mine will be OK for the MOT. If not a tweak will be needed.
If it's no trouble for you to do the pics it might be useful, just to see how Suzuki tackled it.
Hopefully mine will be OK for the MOT. If not a tweak will be needed.
YouTube
Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
Ignis Sport 1.5 16V; Jimny gearbox, 410 transfer box; 5.125:1 Vitara diffs; rear Lockright, Rob Storr full float rear axle, rear discs, YJ springs, virtual lift, 31" Grizzly Claws, beadlock rims, +50mm LR arches, LED rear lights, LED roof spots, bucket seats, Luke harnesses, internal cage
- Jordi
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Re: Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
Some appropriately sized washers could be used where he cable goes into the drum just to space it out a bit. Might try that myself, cheers for the idea Kiwi.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank
- ROBBIE
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Re: Transfer box drum brake cable adjustment
My cable mount was was made from two angled plates placed back to back, they are quite think 3-4 mm each , but they wold flex when i pulled the handbreak. So i welded some bracing on them and never had the problem again
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Jimny 1.6 not as good as an SJ but still good
Jimny 1.6 not as good as an SJ but still good