Suzuki Club UK

Hi all
started on changing the above and feeling brave, done some reading and in we go. Always a bit worried when I have not got a manual. Have to say was surprisingly easy to get to the cambelt, the bottom crankshaft pulley bolt came undone as follows: handbrake on and in 4th gear ( thanks for the tip), my torque wrench with socket and a sharp quick pull and pop. If you do it slow and strong nothing but car moving along, needs quick sharp yank. The hardest part was the damn bottom radiator hose, after 27 yrs that did not want to come off.

Any way now the Q's
The belt tensioner, there is a big spring in there, is it safe just to undo mounting bolts and will I be able to get that spring back on. How do I then tension it as is not a " floating tension job " but is fixed after initial tension, so how do I set it ?

Surprisingly The 27 yr old belt ( looks original with suzuki written on ) looks in good nick but as here will change it. Previous owner of 23 yrs said never changed !!

I assume that as seen in pics I just make sure bottom pulley and cambelt pulley don't move slip new belt on and then set tension, how ?

As for the water pump need to remove back cover also so need to remove top cam pulley, should be easy to jam that still to undo without special tool xxyy 123, but the bottom pulley, any tricks there or does it need a special tool, type centre bolt with two smaller bolts into threaded holes and squeeze thingy.
Any pointers on this.

Torque settings for all these bolts, especially bottom pulley keyed job, can I look at the LJ80 manuals on forum as this is almost the same engine ??

Thanks
Steve

We have this

http://forum.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/vi ... =13&t=6948

Not sure if it contains all the info required for you.

And this

http://forum.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/vi ... =13&t=3537

And this

http://forum.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/vi ... =16&t=2957

I think that mainly refers to G series engines though.

Help, just been reading the lj80 manual about cam belt removal and tensioning ( definetly the same tension set up as SJ410 ), seems far more complicated than expected and unfortunatly the pics in scanned manual are not quite readable to understand what they mean Help.

Talk off moving lower pulley to the left to stop pistons hitting valves !!!!!!!!!
I thought this was not possible in these engines, god help me if I get this wrong.

Steve

F series is just a mini G series anyway

As long as you put it back exactly as it is it will be fine. I just tension them by hand.

Time for a bit of feedback.

Remember this is a SJ 410 970cc engine.
THIS IS NOT AS PER MANUAL.
Getting to the cam belt is pretty straightforward, ignoring probs with bottom rad hose. The bottom crank pulley needs to come of as I descibed above.

Press on right hand side of OLD belt to get a feel for the correct tension you will be aiming for later.
Then turn ( clockwise )bottom crank with spanner ( spark plugs out ) till top cam shaft pulley marks line up with rear cover marks at the same time as bottom crank marks and keyway line up with marks on rear cover marks ( will be obvious to you when your in there )
Have a good look at tensioner system and make sure you remember how the spring is located for reassembly. Nothing worse than trying to work out after.
Undone 2 tensioner bolts and take off tensioner keeping eye and hand over bolt with spring on and keeping spring on bolt.
Slip off belt.
Bolt NEW tensioner ( you are putting a new tensioner pulley in are'nt you ?? )in place loose, slip on NEW belt making sure all markers are still inline top and bottom pulley.
Slip tensioner spring back into tensioned position ( bit easier said than done but with a bit of patience )
tighten tensioner bolts. check by hand that the tension on RIGHT HAND SIDE of belt is ok ( only small amount of deflection under finger pressure as above.
CHECK AGAIN THAT ALL MARKERS ON TOP AND BOTTOM PULLEY LINE UP EXACTLY( it is easy to put belt on one tooth out.)

VERY IMPORTANT PART. using spanner on BOTTOM pulley turn engine over ( clockwise )at least two times slowly checking that all relevant markers & lines line up exactly as before.
Undo 2 tension bolts a little to allow tensioner to readjust and then tighten up 2 bolts.
turn by hand again as final check and you're all done.
refit everything in reverse order.
Could someone confirm the following. The bottom pulley needs to be put back on with torque wrench at 36 to 43 foot pounds. Again car in gear and brake on should do it.
I took these torque readings from LJ80 manual on this site, does not seem that much to me but that is what it said.

The water pump I decided after taking old belt off and turning pump that felt in good condition, no play in bearing and no water leaks to leave this time.
To replace the water pump will be relatively easy. After taking cam belt off you need to also take off rear cover to get to pump.
Ignore my previous post on how to take off lower toothed pulley, once belt is off this slips off easy with only 2 fingers. You need to take off top camshaft pulley but this would be easy as plenty of space to block pulley while undoing and doing up. Top pulley is same torque as bottom 36 - 43 foot pounds.

First time I have ever changed a cam belt and have to say with a bit of patience and stand back and think time was pretty easy. Next time I recon belt and pump change start to finish in less than an hour ( bottom rad hose permitting )

Hope this helps someone

Steve

Was about to say the bottom pulley just slides off once the main bolt is removed, the way I undo the main bolt is with a lever bar, wedged on the chassis and then give the starter a quick flick with the king lead removed from the coil so it can't accidentally start. The lj80 F8 is an interference engine but the f10a isn't