Suzuki Club UK

Im getting a bit stuck on what to do with my rear tub now ive done a pick up conversion.....


I want to have it as a dry store with a flat top to strap the spare wheel too, so heres the idea ive come up with..

I work on a daily basis with wood, stud walling plying etc.


I thought about forming some frame work with wood eather side of the tub screwing it through the metal and into the void in the arch and then into another bit of timber, a length across the back of the cab and a few lengths between the two sides, basically like a ladder if you catch my drift. Ill go overboard with fixings of corse

Then cut a sheet of marine ply in over the top of it all and screw it down, after that screw a thin sheet of galvanised steel on top, roofing mastic around the edges and fit some tie down eyes eather corner for the spare wheel.

And having it tight up to the rear tailgate so I can open the tailgate to chuck my stuff in underneath.


Does this sound like a good idea or a stupid one? all the timber I will use I will treat with relevant stuff.

If it does sound real stupid what other ideas you boys got?

Personally I wouldn't use wood.

If you are putting the spare on the new bed I would fit a spare wheel carrier there so it has something to fix too.

The back door fitting up so there is added weathter proof storage is always a bonus.

Yeah im not sold on the idea of wood, but metal is a lot heavyer and there isn't many good strong places to weld it too on the rear tub.

its a hard one I want dry storage and something pretty easy to make that's pratical and strong that wont look crap, ive also considered fibreglassing but that still needs wood to form the profiles

Having looked at your photos of the bed in your build thread I would be tempted to go with as light as possible steel angle iron frame with a support in the middle where you want to put the spare wheel and pop rivet an ally sheet to it.

Design the steel framework so you can fit a spare wheel carrier on top of the ally sheet.

Wont be the cheapest soloution but will have good finish, weather well, and probably be most weather proof.

Let the sheet overhang at the rear of the frame enough to fit a push on weatherstrip (like a car boot seal) that will meet the rear door.

Cut a couple of holes in the hardtop rear door under the framework and fit a couple of caravan type air vents through to the main cab to stop it from getting too damp in there.

I agree with Dan, I'd ditch the wood idea, its not very strong unless you use big sections, then it will look a tw4t.

Looking at the shape you have available, you have a nice lip on the back of the Vit. If you make and fit a piece the width of the new back door, and about 100mm from the door backwards. This would allow somewhere to fit hinges. You could then fabricate using box or angle a frame to sit on the inside of the lip. Brace it as required to mount the spare wheel, the cover it in some metal sheet you have available. Slightly over hanging the sides so as to stop water running inside, and fit an edging.

Simples.

I like them with proper fitted canvas covers. All depends if you are keeping anything valuable in it.

very good ideas guys thanks, the truck is dry stored when not in use so weathering is not amassive problem, but still I guess wood isn't the answer, but its the closest thing to hand for me.


mounting is the hardest, the inner arches are very thin metal, using them as a structural mount by welding to them may prove to be a disaster that's why I considerd sandwiching them with some timber, I was going to use 2x3 so it aint weak batten type stuff.


But saying that I might grab some box section off a mate cut it too size and see what I can form, im not expecting mericles just really some sort of pratical dry store to chuck my kit under, eather that of I just leave it open and cut some sheeting into any holes

rory-ray wrote: mounting is the hardest, the inner arches are very thin metal, using them as a structural mount by welding to them may prove to be a disaster that's why I considerd sandwiching them with some timber, I was going to use 2x3 so it aint weak batten type stuff.

Thats why I suggested the spare wheel mount support in the center.

You could make a plate or bracket that mounts to the most central of the original seat mounting holes and goes up to support the center of the new rear cover with wheel mount on top. This would do most of the load bearing and the frame that goes out to the edges could just sit on top of the very highest lip with bolts passed through to secure it.

Think you would be supprised how strong it would be with a good dose of polyurethane adhesive to secure it between fixings, stop it rattling, and seal it up.

ahhh I see were your coming from now, that's a real good idea actually. Thanks for you advice man I owe you one!

If I ever pull my finger out and get on the design board I'll finish the Vit fastback roof idea...and will post how to do it too! In the mean time Dan's idea makes sense to me.