Transfer box handbrake info.

Starts at the flywheel, ends at the hubs, any problems along them lines, ask your questions here.
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Darrell
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Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Darrell » Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:39 pm

Couple of pics of what I made. I used 5mm plate and 25mm box section but you can use whatever you can get your hands on. The handle is 400mm long which was useful as it reached the chassis rail and I couldn't hold it swinging on the breaker bar :shock:
Have fun :thumbup:
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Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Newtomud » Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:32 am

Once again Darrell, Thankyou :salute:

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Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by ScottieJ » Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:47 am

Note there are 2 different size flanges on SJs though. if yours is a late model it could have the larger flanges with 10mm bolts and a different PCD. not 8mm like in the picture above :doublethumbs:
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Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Newtomud » Tue Aug 16, 2011 6:33 pm

Not much steel available to make something as tidy as yours Darrell but I did get the job done..
Used a redundant rear brake drum and some aluminium sleeves to protect the prop brake studs..(Old rear brake drum has much bigger holes and I didn't want to damage the studs on the prop brake)

I'll use the flange that fits the prop brake to make a template to make something like yours for next time... Thanks again :doublethumbs:
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Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Newtomud » Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:44 am

There's a guy on Ebay that's selling a T-box hand brake cable (item number 280715233777)It's the same part number as the one in Darrell's picture (First line FKB1473) but it's got different fixings... Going to have to be careful when buying this part..
Also the adjuster on my transfer brake is just a screw with a quarter inch square head on the outside of the casing.. Looks much easier to adjust

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Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by timpaton » Sun Jan 15, 2012 4:31 pm

Gentlemen,

Firstly Thank you for all your assistance so far, i am genuinely touched at by helpful you all are, and am now well on the way to an MOT.

Secondly, and update.

After sleeping on yesterdays nightmare, i woke up and had a brainwave. I knew i had a long quite thick, about 3mm, piece of angle iron, when i say long i mean about four feet, in the garage.

Fortunately it had a long, approx 10mm diameter by 10cm slot already cut in it, so i drilled a 3/8 hole, approx 6cm away from the slot. I figured using this piece with the slot would allow me the flexibility to use both sizes of pulley / flange, with this tool.

I then stopped and labelled all of the flanges, i.e tbox 1 input, front, and rear, tbox2 ......

I then mounted this angle iron onto the first pulley of tbox 1, and drew around the semi circular piece of angle obstructing the main bolt from flange to box. Using a hand saw, i then cut away the semi circle to allow the 22mm socket to engage the main nut, and filed down the burrs.

I then wedged tbox1 against my vice on the far right hand side of my bench, and drew the angle iron arm up to about ten to nine, and clasped this onto the bench with a big g-clamp.

Using a 3 foot power bar, i then tried to release the main nut of the input to tbox1, but to no avail, so i heated the nut and the shaft /drive flange with a blow lamp for a minute or so. This worked a treat, and before i knew it, i had all three of tbox 1's and all three of tbox 2's drive flanges removed!

I simply then reversed the angle iron, and put the box at the other end of the bench, gripped it down with the g clamp (the angle, not the soft ally cased box) and used the power bar to reinstate the pulleys onto the alternate boxes.

I then reinstalled tbox2 with tbox 1's flanges into "Suzi" and bolted her up.

I drained the remaining oil, and put some fresh in.

I then repeated the leaving the tbox in neutral test, and running it through all the gears, and am happy to report that the clattering has gone!
However the speed (although stationery, so what i actually mean id the noise made by the output of the normal manual gearbox) related noise has not gone away, so now i guess i must change the gearbox. This is OK as i have a spare, so will do this next weekend.


P.S. i also found that i didn't need to take the exhaust off as the Haynes manual suggested.

Tim

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Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by phil1511 » Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:59 pm

hi do you know where i can source some transmission brake shoes or do you have any part nos ?thanks phil

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Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Darrell » Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:09 pm

ScottieJ wrote:Note there are 2 different size flanges on SJs though. if yours is a late model it could have the larger flanges with 10mm bolts and a different PCD. not 8mm like in the picture above :doublethumbs:

But are the larger flanged props used with a transfer brake model. I thought they are only fitted to models with the handbrake built in to the rear brakes ??
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Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Darrell » Sun Dec 15, 2013 11:34 pm

Bit more cable info
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FIRST-LINE-FKB1473-Cable-Set-parking-brake 2013-12-15 23-25-24.jpeg
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Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Darrell » Wed Dec 18, 2013 7:34 pm

And .............
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