Transfer box handbrake info.

Starts at the flywheel, ends at the hubs, any problems along them lines, ask your questions here.
User avatar
Darrell
Suzuki, will you marry me?
Suzuki, will you marry me?
Posts: 2976
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 7:54 pm
Location: south oxfordshire
Contact:

Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Darrell » Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:39 pm

Couple of pics of what I made. I used 5mm plate and 25mm box section but you can use whatever you can get your hands on. The handle is 400mm long which was useful as it reached the chassis rail and I couldn't hold it swinging on the breaker bar :shock:
Have fun :thumbup:
DSCF0816.jpg
DSCF0816.jpg (93.36 KiB) Viewed 12343 times
DSCF0817.jpg
DSCF0817.jpg (121.27 KiB) Viewed 12343 times
2005-GV 1600se, "Hell" What do I know!

User avatar
Newtomud
Can I have a tow
Can I have a tow
Posts: 478
Joined: Thu May 05, 2011 2:43 pm
Location: wolverhampton

Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Newtomud » Tue Aug 16, 2011 9:32 am

Once again Darrell, Thankyou :salute:

User avatar
ScottieJ
The Boss
The Boss
Posts: 11107
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:13 am
Location: Chippenham, wiltshire

Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by ScottieJ » Tue Aug 16, 2011 9:47 am

Note there are 2 different size flanges on SJs though. if yours is a late model it could have the larger flanges with 10mm bolts and a different PCD. not 8mm like in the picture above :doublethumbs:
Zuki Build

Steady as she goes!

User avatar
Newtomud
Can I have a tow
Can I have a tow
Posts: 478
Joined: Thu May 05, 2011 2:43 pm
Location: wolverhampton

Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Newtomud » Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:33 pm

Not much steel available to make something as tidy as yours Darrell but I did get the job done..
Used a redundant rear brake drum and some aluminium sleeves to protect the prop brake studs..(Old rear brake drum has much bigger holes and I didn't want to damage the studs on the prop brake)

I'll use the flange that fits the prop brake to make a template to make something like yours for next time... Thanks again :doublethumbs:
Attachments
ok 130.JPG
ok 130.JPG (703.43 KiB) Viewed 12408 times

User avatar
Newtomud
Can I have a tow
Can I have a tow
Posts: 478
Joined: Thu May 05, 2011 2:43 pm
Location: wolverhampton

Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Newtomud » Sun Aug 28, 2011 8:44 am

There's a guy on Ebay that's selling a T-box hand brake cable (item number 280715233777)It's the same part number as the one in Darrell's picture (First line FKB1473) but it's got different fixings... Going to have to be careful when buying this part..
Also the adjuster on my transfer brake is just a screw with a quarter inch square head on the outside of the casing.. Looks much easier to adjust

User avatar
timpaton
Got muddy boots
Got muddy boots
Posts: 75
Joined: Fri Dec 09, 2011 3:08 pm
Location: Reading Berkshire

Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by timpaton » Sun Jan 15, 2012 4:31 pm

Gentlemen,

Firstly Thank you for all your assistance so far, i am genuinely touched at by helpful you all are, and am now well on the way to an MOT.

Secondly, and update.

After sleeping on yesterdays nightmare, i woke up and had a brainwave. I knew i had a long quite thick, about 3mm, piece of angle iron, when i say long i mean about four feet, in the garage.

Fortunately it had a long, approx 10mm diameter by 10cm slot already cut in it, so i drilled a 3/8 hole, approx 6cm away from the slot. I figured using this piece with the slot would allow me the flexibility to use both sizes of pulley / flange, with this tool.

I then stopped and labelled all of the flanges, i.e tbox 1 input, front, and rear, tbox2 ......

I then mounted this angle iron onto the first pulley of tbox 1, and drew around the semi circular piece of angle obstructing the main bolt from flange to box. Using a hand saw, i then cut away the semi circle to allow the 22mm socket to engage the main nut, and filed down the burrs.

I then wedged tbox1 against my vice on the far right hand side of my bench, and drew the angle iron arm up to about ten to nine, and clasped this onto the bench with a big g-clamp.

Using a 3 foot power bar, i then tried to release the main nut of the input to tbox1, but to no avail, so i heated the nut and the shaft /drive flange with a blow lamp for a minute or so. This worked a treat, and before i knew it, i had all three of tbox 1's and all three of tbox 2's drive flanges removed!

I simply then reversed the angle iron, and put the box at the other end of the bench, gripped it down with the g clamp (the angle, not the soft ally cased box) and used the power bar to reinstate the pulleys onto the alternate boxes.

I then reinstalled tbox2 with tbox 1's flanges into "Suzi" and bolted her up.

I drained the remaining oil, and put some fresh in.

I then repeated the leaving the tbox in neutral test, and running it through all the gears, and am happy to report that the clattering has gone!
However the speed (although stationery, so what i actually mean id the noise made by the output of the normal manual gearbox) related noise has not gone away, so now i guess i must change the gearbox. This is OK as i have a spare, so will do this next weekend.

A question for you all - Tbox 1 had above the input shaft from the manual transmission, kind of like a vent? it looked like a metal dust cap, at its highest point. I took this off and had a look, and it just had a spring and a rubber seal below, so i guess this was an over pressure vent ? Does anybody know what it is?

Second question - Tbox 2 just has a small not very well secured thin metal pipe, about 4mm diameter, and 40mm in length. The guy i got this from said it was a vent, and if you wanted to river run, you should install a long hose to stop the tbox getting water in it. However i don't plan on river running soon so i fixed a short length of water pipe, with a bolt in the end and two jubilee clips, as a temp fix.
I did take out the vent thingy from tbox 1 to try and install it to tbox 2, but the vent thingy is a much wider diameter, approx 12mm, than the hole in tbox 2, approx 4mm, and thus won't fit.

So what should i do?

P.S. i also found that i didn't need to take the exhaust off as the Haynes manual suggested.

Tim

User avatar
dan_2k_uk
I spend far too much time on here
I spend far too much time on here
Posts: 4927
Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 4:19 pm
Location: Swindon, Wiltshire

Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by dan_2k_uk » Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:32 pm

The small springy cap is the breather. The same are fitted to the diff's and gearbox.

It is designed to let out air as the box/axle and oil warm up and expand and then if you dip into water as it rapidly cools the inrush of air will pull it shut stopping crap from getting sucked in.

However they dont always work that well so most people run a hose from these breathers to a high up point in the engine bay or cab to help keep crap out of the oils.

The worst blocking it up will do is probably push some oil round the seals as it expands. Prbably better off to run a hose up to the battery area and pick up the axles while you are at it.

Dan
Image
Janspeed manifold, LWB Vit vented discs and calipers

Build thread -- Build photos -- HLA-Artwork
Coming soon: YJs, Trussed axles, Full float rear.

User avatar
timpaton
Got muddy boots
Got muddy boots
Posts: 75
Joined: Fri Dec 09, 2011 3:08 pm
Location: Reading Berkshire

Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by timpaton » Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:11 pm

Thanks Dan,

See what you mean, but this breather pipe outlet on tbox 2 is a loose fit, are these normally tapped? should i seek out a replacement from the dealer, or seal it into the box with some mastic, and run a breather pipe up, as you suggest?

Regards,

Tim

User avatar
dan_2k_uk
I spend far too much time on here
I spend far too much time on here
Posts: 4927
Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 4:19 pm
Location: Swindon, Wiltshire

Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by dan_2k_uk » Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:31 pm

I dont know whether they are threaded.

I would just seal it in with some sillicone and run a hose to the area behind the battery. Just cable tie a bit of fabric over the end of the hose to keep dirt out.

Dan
Image
Janspeed manifold, LWB Vit vented discs and calipers

Build thread -- Build photos -- HLA-Artwork
Coming soon: YJs, Trussed axles, Full float rear.

User avatar
Tramp
Suzuki, will you marry me?
Suzuki, will you marry me?
Posts: 2823
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 9:09 pm
Location: Rotherham - South Yorkshire

Re: Transfer box handbrake info.

Post by Tramp » Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:01 pm

Right then the small metal pipe on box 2 how is it attached? The hole shouldn't be tapped unless some one has already done it. On t box one there should be a little collar that the cap fits on to (the original breather is made up of the collar, the cap the spring and a sealing disk) The collar is only pressed into the box so if you get some stilsons or mole grips on it you can twist it & work it out, then you can use a 1/4 bsp tap to tap the orifice that is left, you need a 90 degree adaptor or you can't get a pipe on it is it fouls on the body, you can then use standard pipe fittings to attach a hose which you run to the engine bay as a breather, I put a little filter on the open end of mine

Post Reply