Suzuki Club UK

SJ-Mini wrote:

Still no snow though and can't play out in it anyway until the heater's plumbed in and the 2 punctures are sorted!!

That's reminded me. I need to sort out my vent system. The heater works, but the vents won't point at the screen properly. I move the slider all the way across to the screen, and crank the fan up to full and JUST barely get some air on the screen, and most of it comes out of the footwell vents. I'm guessing the cables that move the vents thing are set slightly wrong or something.

I've already fixed the temperature one, because the cable had com out of the slider/handle thing.

All's fair in love and war(-by-four)

I now have a working heater although it doesn't blow much on the screen!

Land Rovers are somewhat more fortunate having a locking diff :smoke:

A landy diff will break really easily, but after the Zuki is rusted and dead the diff will still be like new

So we should just put up with the lack of locking diff and consider ourselves lucky

The sj would own a landi off-road with or without locking diffs :smoke:

Donald

Edweird wrote:

SJ-Mini wrote:

Still no snow though and can't play out in it anyway until the heater's plumbed in and the 2 punctures are sorted!!

That's reminded me. I need to sort out my vent system. The heater works, but the vents won't point at the screen properly. I move the slider all the way across to the screen, and crank the fan up to full and JUST barely get some air on the screen, and most of it comes out of the footwell vents. I'm guessing the cables that move the vents thing are set slightly wrong or something.

I've already fixed the temperature one, because the cable had com out of the slider/handle thing.

All's fair in love and war(-by-four)

I don't know if the heater unit is the same in the 410 (be right back going to look at your ed's wagon thread)


Right then... It looks similar enough to my samaurai's. the cable from the heater controls pulls a cable which runs down into the drivers foot well. As the selector moves, the cable pulls a flap in the heater unit which directs the hot air flow to the different vents
-If you get your head in the foot well you can see how it works (especially if you fiddle with the lever at the same time)

I imagine your cable outter has moved in its clamp so when you are putting it on screen the flap doesn't move fully and the hot air escapes out of the center 'foot' vents. if you reach under the dash by the heater matrix you can feel where the cable outter is held, if you slide the cable outter up or down in the clamp, it alters what position the flap is in (when the levers in a position)

If I was you I'd put the control lever to 'screen' then slide the cable outter up (or down) in the clamp until you can see the flap (or damper if you want to be technical!) move to the end of its movement,

ta da, fixed

*edit* I thought I'd ad you can see part of the flap mechanism in the heater vents by the gear stick, so you can see through the grill when its at the end of its movement, I think the flap wants to be 'up' when you have it on screen as the hot air runs down to the flaps and then back up to the vents by the windscreen

Tramp wrote:I don't know if the heater unit is the same in the 410 (be right back going to look at your ed's wagon thread)


Right then... It looks similar enough to my samaurai's. the cable from the heater controls pulls a cable which runs down into the drivers foot well. As the selector moves, the cable pulls a flap in the heater unit which directs the hot air flow to the different vents
-If you get your head in the foot well you can see how it works (especially if you fiddle with the lever at the same time)

I imagine your cable outter has moved in its clamp so when you are putting it on screen the flap doesn't move fully and the hot air escapes out of the center 'foot' vents. if you reach under the dash by the heater matrix you can feel where the cable outter is held, if you slide the cable outter up or down in the clamp, it alters what position the flap is in (when the levers in a position)

If I was you I'd put the control lever to 'screen' then slide the cable outter up (or down) in the clamp until you can see the flap (or damper if you want to be technical!) move to the end of its movement,

ta da, fixed

*edit* I thought I'd ad you can see part of the flap mechanism in the heater vents by the gear stick, so you can see through the grill when its at the end of its movement, I think the flap wants to be 'up' when you have it on screen as the hot air runs down to the flaps and then back up to the vents by the windscreen

Thanks for the info, I'll go try that now. I guess I shouldv'e thought of that kinda thing anyway My name should be Edstupid.

LandiSJ wrote:Land Rovers are somewhat more fortunate having a locking diff :smoke:

A landy diff will break really easily, but after the Zuki is rusted and dead the diff will still be like new

So we should just put up with the lack of locking diff and consider ourselves lucky

The sj would own a landi off-road with or without locking diffs :smoke:

Donald

We dont need a locking centre diff as we have 2wd for road use. Because landrovers are permanent 4wd they need a diff in the tbox to prevent transmission wind up and make them handle better on road.

an sj in 4wd is exactly the same as a landrover with the centre difflock engaged.

Then you get to difflocks in the axle diffs, not many 4x4s come with these as standard. 90's, 110's, range rover classics and old disco's dont. But yeah the diffs in landy axles are made of chocolate

ScottieJ wrote:

LandiSJ wrote:Land Rovers are somewhat more fortunate having a locking diff :smoke:

A landy diff will break really easily, but after the Zuki is rusted and dead the diff will still be like new

So we should just put up with the lack of locking diff and consider ourselves lucky

The sj would own a landi off-road with or without locking diffs :smoke:

Donald

We dont need a locking centre diff as we have 2wd for road use. Because landrovers are permanent 4wd they need a diff in the tbox to prevent transmission wind up and make them handle better on road.

an sj in 4wd is exactly the same as a landrover with the centre difflock engaged.

Then you get to difflocks in the axle diffs, not many 4x4s come with these as standard. 90's, 110's, range rover classics and old disco's dont. But yeah the diffs in landy axles are made of chocolate

but dont taste as nice and weigh abought a ton

ScottieJ wrote:

LandiSJ wrote:Land Rovers are somewhat more fortunate having a locking diff :smoke:

A landy diff will break really easily, but after the Zuki is rusted and dead the diff will still be like new

So we should just put up with the lack of locking diff and consider ourselves lucky

The sj would own a landi off-road with or without locking diffs :smoke:

Donald

We dont need a locking centre diff as we have 2wd for road use. Because landrovers are permanent 4wd they need a diff in the tbox to prevent transmission wind up and make them handle better on road.

an sj in 4wd is exactly the same as a landrover with the centre difflock engaged.

Then you get to difflocks in the axle diffs, not many 4x4s come with these as standard. 90's, 110's, range rover classics and old disco's dont. But yeah the diffs in landy axles are made of chocolate

All that was double-dutch. I really need to do some homework!