Suzuki Club UK

Right so now the fronts done im on to the rear firstly remove the old rear springs and axle Then I measured up to make relocation plates which will be bolted into the original spring mount and ended up with a pair of these I then pressed in the superpro bushes into the YJ rears and bolted it all up Ive still got to drill for the anti rotate holes but now I have a measurement to make up some shackles

I have now measured an made up the shackles for the rear heres some pics Thanks for looking

Looks good, some real nice fab work

Is there any reason that you made a kinked shackle over a straight shackle? I can see them limiting droop travel as they are because they will hit the shackle stop before reaching full droop, another option would be to cut the shackle stop off the chassis or maybe rotate the shackle.

All i can say is, very nice work.

As with all DIY kits i presume there will be a little trial and error once you have it up and running.

What route are you taking with your shocks and mounts for this?

Jordi wrote:As with all DIY kits i presume there will be a little trial and error once you have it up and running.

This is always true, I've still got a few small changes I want to do to mine, but it drives and works well as it is so I haven't got around to them yet

ScottieJ wrote:

Jordi wrote:As with all DIY kits i presume there will be a little trial and error once you have it up and running.

This is always true, I've still got a few small changes I want to do to mine, but it drives and works well as it is so I haven't got around to them yet

I have a bit of concern about clearance when i fit mine. I can see Mr Angry coming out again. I'm going to hold off fitting the 410 front end for now. Once the YJs are on i'll cut that to fit.

Thanks I kinked the shackles to decrease the angle between the shackle and spring eyes I may cut off the stops just in case it does catch. I am a little undecided on the shocks whether to mount them to the axle using weld on tabs or to mount them to the spring plates above the spring.

Jordi, as with anything you make there is a possibility of re-work I suppose its just fingers crossed and hope it works if it dont have another go

gp7186 wrote:Thanks I kinked the shackles to decrease the angle between the shackle and spring eyes I may cut off the stops just in case it does catch. I am a little undecided on the shocks whether to mount them to the axle using weld on tabs or to mount them to the spring plates above the spring.

The shackle angle is still the same the angle plane of the shackle is measured between bolt centre to bolt centre so a straight shackle would perform exactly the same as the kinked shackle, it just looks like it sits at more of an angle to the eye.

The only reason to use a kinked or 'banana' shackle as they are often called is to clear something that might be in the way during flex, like for instance the shackle stop.
So if you turned the shackles around they would allow more droop before hitting the stop

As for the shocks I would run some with at least 10-12" travel. The fronts are nice and easy as there is loads of room to build taller shock mounts on the chassis so you can pretty much mount the shocks wherever you want on the axle, mine are on top of the axle tube.
As you are SPOA on the rear I think you'll want to mount them to the axle tube, if you mount them to the spring plates I think you'll struggle to fit long shocks without titling them in loads and the more you tilt them in the more it reduces the dampening effect.

On the style of Borat. very nice!

ScottieJ, yeah I understand about the shackle angle to be honest I saw some online on a US site and thought they looked better less steep il run it up and see how it looks. With regards to the rear shocks I will run the same double sandwich plates on the rear so I may mount the shocks to the bottom plate