Suzuki Club UK

Anton wrote:Were you meaning to do a complete resto job when you bought it, or is it just in your blood to make rustbuckets all shiney?

I would imagine that panel just fell off unexpectedly Anton so it is more urgent repairs than restoration.

Anton wrote:Were you meaning to do a complete resto job when you bought it, or is it just in your blood to make rustbuckets all shiney?

Not really, i was going to break it or sell it as an off roader with no mot. Ive always liked the disco and the rangy. So when the carlton died it was my first choice on the list of possible next cars. The fact that its good for towing then motavated me to get my trailer test done as ive put off the expense for years as ive never had a suitable tow vehicle. A tow vehicle needs to be in good order as it would be checked for road worthyness should vosa pull me in when towing.
This disco however is not in good condition.

Its only advisory last mot was "light corrosion on sill"

This i assume means you can see light through the bloody sill!

When i bought it i just did my usual and took a punt on it, when buying something for under a grand im a firm beliver that you have to look at it with a throw away attitude.

Funnily ,
I bought a 96 punto called felix for £200 once, 128k and a dent in every panel as a stop gap car for someone, i never even opened the bonnet when i looked at it.
Told it had loads of MOT and service history (i didnt check or care)
Turns out it had 3 days MOT, past first time and they used it for 3 years and about 20k miles. Had about £80 spent on it during that time. Bangernomics.

Jordi wrote:

Anton wrote:Were you meaning to do a complete resto job when you bought it, or is it just in your blood to make rustbuckets all shiney?

I would imagine that panel just fell off unexpectedly Anton so it is more urgent repairs than restoration.

Sounds about right, now I come to think about it.

andyrew wrote:Bangernomics.

You're going to do what to 'er?

Many many Pounds later and MOT is looming
Closer. Time to get the other sill done and all the other welding. And there's a lot of that.

Now would be an ideal time for the clutch fork to fail obviously. I'd call it the first breakdown its had but to be fair I still got home without the clutch it just took some crunchy gears and some left foot braking.

Question is, do I change it in the street or crunch and grind it to the barn.

andyrew wrote:Many many Pounds later and MOT is looming
Closer. Time to get the other sill done and all the other welding. And there's a lot of that.

Now would be an ideal time for the clutch fork to fail obviously. I'd call it the first breakdown its had but to be fair I still got home without the clutch it just took some crunchy gears and some left foot braking.

Question is, do I change it in the street or crunch and grind it to the barn.

This is a conundrum. Knowing it may collapse into a pile of scrap when the gearbox is removed i say thw barn.

Knowing how heavy the gearboxes are deffo barn!

Barn for sure

Going to try leaving the gearbox in but moving it back enough to change the arm. Using some studding through the bolt holes in the bell housing helps to keep in alignment and then a trolley jack under the tbox. Remove props and mounts and slide back. I've got a spare fork arm to brace and fit.

Im hoping the two top bolts have been left out as these are an absolute bastard to get at I've been informed.

I was hoping to put a recon box and tbox In at some point soon when I could build it at work. Just not right now. I've only been there 4 days. I can build the r380 gearbox, i just haven't learnt the tbox yet!

At least I work at the right place for parts now and my commute is a 12min walk.

andyrew wrote:At least I work at the right place for parts now and my commute is a 12min walk.

Not so much for the spares but so when it won't start on a morning you can still walk to work and be on time.

Good luck with that idea, last time I put a gearbox in one took 3 of us and a trolley jack and a lot of swearing