Suzuki Club UK

Right, unfortunately tramp has lost his guide of a stalk rebuild, so Ive had to partially go it alone, aside for some pics he helpfully provided me with.

Important notes for disassembly.... I advise looking at all the pictures before disassembling, it will give you an idea of which bits will fly out and get lost in your carpet
When you open the thing you have to prise off the arms of the little metal cage holding it together.
You also need to remove one of the springs that hold on the self-cancel lever for the indicators.
When these are removed you can gently split the plastic casing open (there are 2 clips holding it shut), but BE CAREFUL because there is a small sliding pin inside which you will see below.
I spent a fair bit of time looking around on the floor after it pinged out!

Sorry the pics aren't brilliant but you can make out most of the parts
As you can see theres a few fiddly bits in there, so details below

This is the bottom part of the casing. You can see the semi circle hole top left where the stalk goes through. The contacts there get pressed down as the stalk rotates. I didn't take them out as they are quite good condition. Bottom left there is 1 pin still there from the 5 pin connector, and the contact for the horn. The 5 pin connector actually splits in half as you take the two halves of the casing apart
This isn't a great picture, but this is the top half of the casing. There are a couple of the connector pins left in there but not much else
Lets go through the parts as we fit them should save me some typing

This is just a flat piece of metal, that goes behind the full beam switch to hold it in
This is the plunger for the full beam switch and the spring for it
I started off by putting the plunger and spring into a rectangular hole in the top half of the casing, followed by the flat retainer plate
This part is the contact for the indicator. This is fixed in place and has a contact the moves up and down to join the middle contact to the top and bottom ones
This is fitted into the lower half of the casing like so
This part is the indicator slider. It goes into a slot in the bottom half of the casing. There are 2 small springs that fit into 2 holes in the side of it (right hand side in this picture) and then the small C shaped contact goes onto the springs, so they push it into contact with the indicator contacts we put in previously
This pic shows it fitted into the casing. Bear in mind that if you remove it the springs and contact will probably fly out somewhere.
Next part is the horn spring/flap. When you press the stalk in for the horn, the end of the stalk its the plastic flap, which then pushes the horn contact lever so it touches another contact in the top half of the casing and completes the circuit
Here we can see if fitted in next to the indicator slider.
Next part is to slot the actual indicator arm into it. There are 3 plastic rings attached to the arm, in my case a tiny black one, and large white and grey ones.
The important thing first is to slot them all together, and to make sure that the middle ring can turn around freely, should be able to turn around about 1/2-3/4 of the way.
Then you will have to lift up the indicator slider slightly, being careful that the spring loaded contact doesn't fly off. Slot the indicator arm in through the long hole in the indicator slider, then slot the arm in so the black small ring is wedged against the side of the casing, and the grey ring slots in the gap for it in the casing. Once its in and the indicator slider is back in place, it should stay there by itself.

Something I forgot to take a picture of.... below you can see a small plunger thing and a spring. This will lock the indicator lever in place when its activated, and stop it flopping around.
At this stage, fit this by slotting them into the rectangular hole you can see in the picture, sort of between the horn flap and the indicator slider.
Spring against the outer edge of the casing, and with the pointed edge of the plunger horizontal, so it is poking into the side of the indicator slider.

This is the part you should be careful of flying out when you take the switch apart!
Next is to fit the indicator cancel switch into the bottom half of the casing. This sits in a slot on the side of the case. there are two plastic nubs that it rotates on, and two springs that hold it to the top and bottom of the casing.
When you put it in, the longer nub should go into the cut out on the indicator slider. This will allow the lever to cancel the indicator. While you are at this stage, make sure both springs are connected to the canceller, and also connect the bottom spring to the casing.
Back to the top part of the casing. The next thing to fit in is the lever arm for the main beam. This arm has two plastic nubs facing up and down that fit into holes in the top and bottom of the casing. It also has a sloped edge that should fit in front of the full beam switch plunger we put in earlier. Pic below is the full beam lever.
In the pic below you can see it slotted into place. Note that you can also see that its tucked in underneath the plunger for the full beam switch.
Don't worry if it sits in a bit wonky. The whole thing rotates on the small plastic nubs when you pull the lever to activate the main beam, so it will be a bit wobbly until it's sandwiched inbetween the two halves of the casing.
Now you need to slot the 2 sides of the casing together. You might have to use a small screw driver and poke it in the gap as you are closing it together. Make sure that the full beam lever has the nubs correctly in the holes in the casing. You can't really see in there so it's a bit hit and miss, but if you have it in wrong, you will know as soon as you try the full beam!

also make sure that the canceller lever is sitting properly in its slot. When the case is clipped together, then use some small tweezers to hook the other canceller switch spring onto the TOP half of the casing
At this point it should be all done... but check that it all works! Once you are happy, put the metal cage back on and reinstall into the vehicle.

Job done hopefully!

Great work twiss I'm glad it all went back together ok, did you find anything amiss? Your photos are loads clearer than mine!

I just thought I'd add this from my old pictures, if I'd of tested my stalk before before disassembly I'd have found out it didn't require stripping!

No I didn't find anything really wrong with it, apart from the plug being broken, which might be letting the pins move around inside when the main beam goes off.
Since taking it apart though I can now disengage the main beam by twisting the stalk slightly back towards sidelights, and it turns the main off without cutting the dip beam.

Strange though as it looks fine inside... but if the dip beam has gone off you can sometimes get it back on by wiggling the wires around at the connector. I think i might have to stick a blob of glue across the not-contacted part of the pins to hold them all in place together