Suzuki Club UK

Hi everyone, when doing a rear disk conversion has anyone welded the original holes up in the axle caliper mounts as when i mark the new holes up in them to mount to the axle they seem very close to the old holes!

I made custom caliper mounts out of (from memory) 10mm plate, and bolted it in place using the original axle bolt holes. I did that because I wanted to use Rover rear calipers for better brake balance under heavy braking.

If you're using the caliper mounts off a front axle, then yes the bolt holes are extremely close. I don't think anyone bothers welding up the old holes though, no. I doubt it's treated or forged steel though, so as long as you don't warp it then you won't harm it by welding it up.



Full rear disk conversion article here.

Welded mine up

Do you need to pull the front shafts to get the brackets?

Do you have to pull the rear shafts to cut the backplate off? - or can you get creative with the cutting?

Has anyone else had this problem

Have to ask the silly questions first, sure thats as far in as it will go? Might have just not lined up the teeth properly. Is the bearing pressed on as far as it can go? Some bearings come with a little collar in which case you don't need the little spacer, if your bearings have the collar AND you fitted the little spacer it would cause it to stick out far enough.

Did you cut the spacer from the original backing plate? Looks like that might be the missing piece. Check point 7 from this guide: https://www.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/how-to-t ... conversion

Looked a bit harder at the picture you sent and it looks like the backplate spacer is missing?

All back together but just tried it jack up and only one side is turning???

If i stop the turning side the other side spins!

Any help am i just being a knob

Presuming that is with it in gear and “driving” and an open diff. Thats how open diffs work.

Which ever wheel is easiest to turn, turns. Soon as that wheel hits resistance the other wheel turns.

It might be that your new brakes need bedding in. One brake might be dragging just slightly more than the other.

Hold the wheel that turns more freely and let the other side spin for a few minutes. Then let everything cool down and test again.

Was this happening before the brake upgrade? Might not be the brakes, it could be one bearing has slightly more friction than the other.

It's probably nothing, but it's worth keeping an eye on.