Suzuki Club UK

I have an A reg, SJ40V with the metal dash and skinny props.
Is the diff flange seal the same as the later ones, part No 09283-35008?
This seems to be the same on the LJ80 , so if it carries over it should be ok….or that’s my theory.

I take it the edge sit in the slot around the front plate on the nose.

Thanks for any leads.

Yes

LJ80 and 410 diffs use the same seals and that part number looks correct
However, ideally you should also change the crush collar and reset the pinion bearing preload when you change a seal and this means diff out, disassembly and re assemble resetting the bearing preloads and gear backlash.

Thanks Scottie. The reason I was worried was that the parts drawing shows the front bearing and seal going in from the front of the diff carrier. If you look back at my photo, there is a flat plate with a groove around the edge in front of the front bearing and behind the seal.
I’ve not tried to remove it before getting the seal so I can see bettor how that fits.
I would expect to see what the drawing shows rather than what I can see!

I am sure I saw a diff rebuild kit somewhere, but can’t find it now. Any ideas?
I want to give it a going over as there is a slight rumble in reverse, but I’d like to have the bits before I start…

Is that not part of the seal?

It’s hard to tell from the pics tbh.

This is the lj80 parts cat page. Shows the same set up as the sj410 and every diff I’ve pulled apart has been as per the parts cats. That’s not to say someone hasn’t been in there before and fitted something that’s wrong or in the wrong order

That’s what I am suspecting, some type of oil shield. The seal in place was stuck to it, so maybe the did that instead of getting the right one.
I’m going to strip it out on Monday and take a look. Only done truck diffs before…this should be fiddly! Time for my meticulous head I think.

How far in from the front of the nose housing should the face of the front bearing end up by the way? The depth of the seal? It looks quite deep to me.

The bearing does sit quite far in, the outer races are pressed into place (only one place they can sit) and then the crush collar sets the bearing preload.

The seal isn’t pressed too far in, there is a dust lip on the seal that sits against the back of the diff flange.

Have a read of this thread. You can ignore the pinion depth shimming section (if you fit new bearings just re use the shims that are on there and it will be correct)

http://forum.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=3349

Thanks for your help Scotty. I am liking this forum very much by the way. Good clear advice and well laid out!

No worries at all! Cheers it’s good to know it still helps people with their SJs.

I much prefer this to FB….Those on here actively engage to help rather than just throw comments out.
Getting on well with the diff, sussed the seal, it was a bodged plate to hold something they got that didn’t fit.
Diff on the bench and have Ordered a kit from Jimny bits. With the preload, if I wrap a line around the flange and use my spring balance ( bought 30 years ago for a Land Rover swivel housing seal job!) will I get the correct starting torque reading as per the special tool in the manual?