Diff guards

Starts at the flywheel, ends at the hubs, any problems along them lines, ask your questions here.
User avatar
donkeychomp
I spend far too much time on here
I spend far too much time on here
Posts: 3582
Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2011 3:49 pm
Location: Shepperton, Middx

Re: Diff guards

Post by donkeychomp » Mon Jan 05, 2015 7:37 pm

oh THOSE diff guards! Thought you meant a bash plate type thing...yes welded on is fine!
If it ticks over...leave it

User avatar
Jordi
Bow down before me
Bow down before me
Posts: 7535
Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2009 2:35 pm
Location: Darlington, Co. Durham

Re: Diff guards

Post by Jordi » Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:15 pm

Fairly sure Rockwatt can knock some up.

He's putting some on the axles cases he's modding for me.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

User avatar
ScottieJ
The Boss
The Boss
Posts: 11637
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2008 12:13 pm
Location: Chippenham, wiltshire

Re: Diff guards

Post by ScottieJ » Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:22 pm

If you can weld you can knock yourself up a set of diff guards out of some 4-5mm plate easily enough.

Steel, angle grinder, drill with a hole saw/cone cutter and a welder and you are sorted :thumbup:

Good question Anton? Tim pink fitted them when he strengthen the axles, the axle cases I bought rather than fabricated as they came up at the right price at the right time.

I'll be making my own diff guards on the next builds, along the lines of Matts but with smaller holes.
Zuki Build

Steady as she goes!

Anton
I spend far too much time on here
I spend far too much time on here
Posts: 3859
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:12 pm
Location: London

Re: Diff guards

Post by Anton » Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:50 pm

I was thinking of making a diff guard similar to yours (tim's?) but using a piece of plate across the top to stop crud getting between it and the pumpkin, and then using chemical metal to "weld" it to the pumpkin.

That way I wouldn't have to wash it out. I was going to make a "scythe/crescent" piece to go around the fill hole so I can still get the plug out (like the notch cut in yours).

I've got some strips of metal that I bent up to the right angle, but I never got around to welding them on (or finishing them) so pipe caps seem like a good idea.
1985 SJ413VX (SJ50V) with SPOA, rear disc brakes, 31x10.5R15 Kaiman Malatesta tyres, an MOT and a lot left to do!

My: Build thread To-do list Pay and Play map

Post Reply