SJ-413 LWB needs carburetor - Isle of Wight

[shasten]

Hello, I am the owner of a long wheel base SJ-413. It is currently not working as it needs a new carburettor. I live on the Isle of Wight and am trying to find a garage that is capable of doing the repairs. It is sat in a garage at the moment and they have informed me that they cannot do it or source the part so I need to act fast as I do not have a place to store it off road and they want to get it off their site. If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

[ROBBIE]

Trying to find an original as replacement won't be easy to find a good one, but there a couple of other options. Webber do one that bolts onto the manifold, an old su, but that will need an adapter or the manifold altered, or there is a member on here who is or just done something else, I'm sure he will be able to give you the info on that. Oh and

[ROBBIE]

Have a look in the engine section, has info about su and also look at slimgrims post about a Toyota carb

[Jordi]

Old hyundai pony, subaru justy or daihatsu charade carbs are bolt on swaps too. Getting rarer now though.

[SlimGrim]

As stated above, I have recently undergone this swap & couldn't t reccomend it more, the swap was carried out last Wednesday & I left for the peak district on friday (210 miles), up and down all the steep hills no problem at all, only bogged down on hills you shouldnt be allowed up in the first place haha! and she drove me home, not a single issue to date
anyway heres a rough guide in lieu of the full one im working on with pics!

The Toyota 3k carb is a near straight swap,

Basically buy one (on ebay around £120 new)

Rip off the ol carb and disconnect all (theres a fuckton) of the vacuum lines
Gently pry the thermal spacer plate (the 1cm thick plate that goes in-between the old carb and the manifold) away

Now here is where I strayed from other online tutorials about various Toyota swaps, other guides say to fill in the ''c'' shaped vacuum channel on the underside and file in a new one on the topside
however my thermal spacer plate not only had a ''c'' shape vacuum channel but also a hole all the way through the plate at one end of the ''c'' so as i was unsure the swap would even work and just in case I needed to put the old carb back on I kept it unfilled.
I did however file/blend the second bore on the top of the thermal spacer from 26mm to nearer 28mm diameter so there wasn't such a 'step' for the air passing through and i feel this has helped the carb gain some lower end torque.

Next I had to find some shorter bolts the same thread (cant remember the size but will include in my how to guide) to bolt on the new carb as the old one used bolts that went all the way through the carb unlike the toy one.

Disconnect one of the two water lines you'll have coming off the block and run the other ( essentially the old out to the water-choke) back into the block

Unscrew the fuel inlet assembly from the old carb (push fit hose) and screw it into the new carb (to replace the thread fit) and just push the old fuel line on

Reconnect the distributor timing advance vacuum line (the old hose wont fit so i for now have simply used one of the other old vac hoses and some brake pipe in the middle to connect them and just sealed the edges, will buy some hose soon xD

Connect the hot air vacuum hose & block off all of the rest of the unused vacuum lines with caps or very tight fitting threads and some silicone if you dont have caps

Bend the throttle cable guide arm so its in the correct position for full throttle to be achieved when pedal all the way down (old carb must have been closer so you need to try and use up all new excess cable (self explanatory when doing the swap)
(also the cylinder thing (cant think of the name atm) on the end of the throttle cable that sits in a holder is too large for the entry hole (again will make sense) and must be either filed down to size or the hole drilled larger (be careful soft yet brittle steel)

Run the manual choke as you would normally through the already (if you're lucky like me) provided hole&gromet in your bulkhead) and place wherever you fancy, I chose up through an unused switch cap

Fire her up and tweak the cold idle (smaller screw near hot idle screw) till happy, then the hot idle (largest adjustment screw) once hot, then fuel/air mix (smaller and lowest screw near where the carb meets manifold) after giving the car a runabout to see how its running

enjoy! (hopefully)

I look forward to hearing what you chose to do swap wise & if its anything we haven't done before feel free to take pics and make a write-up!!
I'll post a full guide with pics soon, just need to find the time to refine it and make it eligible haha