Full floating axle

[dannytrigger]

Ok so just about to put my order in for full floating axle kit from rob storr. Just wanted to know what other parts will i need on installing. Also has any one done a write up on this or pics of install?

[ScottieJ]

You'll need some stub axles, hubs, front wheel bearings, calliper mounts, brake guards, Callipers and sliders, discs, brake line T-piece, some front brake lines as well as some copper brake line and some fixed drive flanges.

Basically everything off a front axle from the knuckles out but not including the knuckles.

parts 1,2,3,4,5,11,12, and the stub axle in blue

[dannytrigger]

is this for rear axle? rob rekons its just calipers? disc and pads?

[ScottieJ]

You need all the bits that the calipers discs and pads mount on to.

These pics are of the zanfi kit, Robs is the same basic design, i.e. bolt on adapters and the fullfoat shaft.

[kibris]

Be interested to hear how you get on with this project as i intend to do the same.

[ferris]

I need to get a move on and get a full floater for mine. I'v just killed another rear wheel bearing . Need to get some sammy axles first though.

[Anton]

Want!!!

Oh, for a bigger bank balance. Would Asin hubs fit that? Looks like they might...

[ScottieJ]

of course they will, it's a front hub, not that there would be much point in my opinion, they probably wouldn't survive on the back axle either.

[Anton]

The point is that if you explode a rear halfshaft, you unlock all 4 hubs and get towed home with nothing but the wheels moving - and then you can deal with the halfshaft without having to lie in the mud for a couple of hours...

I'm hoping to strengthen my axles (halfshafts, birfields, bearings) so that the driveshafts are the weak points (make them a "fusable link") - so if I do overcook anything, it's the driveshafts that pop.

IMO they're the easiest thing to swap out in a field. Mine come out and go back in super easy, at any rate. And I have a spare pair sitting about.

As for not surviving on the back, Asin hubs survive ok on the front of Toyota Hilux's - which I think probably have a lot more forces applied to them than the rear of an SJ. I've seen the Asin hubs off a Hilux, and they're identical to SJ ones inside and out (Surf ones are different for sure, but mk3/4 Hilux freewheeling hubs are the same as ours as far as I can tell, having had one of each side by side). Besides, would the rear axle really have more forces applied to it than the front one when you're in 4wd?

I don't suppose it matters, I'm unlikely to fit a full float kit because of money issues, just thinking out loud more than anything.

[ScottieJ]

To remove a full float shaft from the rear axle it takes all of 1 minute if that, 6 bolts and it pulls out

Plus the point of fitting the full float conversion is so that you do not have to worry about them breaking, They are probably twice as strong as a standard half shaft and I've never broken a standard one, even on 33s with a 1.6 and 4.6:1 low box (now 7.6:1)

The rear axle is pushing rather than pulling so yes it does see more forces than on the front, hence why it is a lot more common to blow up a rear diff than a front. Also once the shafts are upgraded the freewheeling hubs will become a weak link, this is probably a bad example as he broke everything but it's not the only time I have seen a FWH fail on US sites.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzuki/8 ... s-0-a.html
I don't know about you but I would not want to swap over to the hilux hub studs either as they are a pain in the arse when it comes to getting the hub body off and I don't like beating the shit into the hub body with a copper hammer to get them off There is the option of drilling and tapping the hubs for larger bolts but personally I'd rather just run fixed drive flanges that I can pull off quickly if I ever need to.