Suzuki Club UK

ScottieJ wrote:

Edweird wrote:I have the opposite problem. My 410 doesn't seem to get properly hot. Seems to stop at about 75 degrees unless I plant my boot through the floor for a good five minutes.

Presume it has a thermostat fitted? Also where are you getting the figure 75* from?

Yeah, thermostat is fitted. I got the figure from a laser thermostat...thingy. Checked the thermostat housing and the top of the rad after a long run.

I'm sure it'll be running at the right temp, those infra red thermometers are usually +/- 1-2% and the temp will fluctuate slightly depending on if the thermostat has just opened/closed.

I wouldn't worry about it as long as a correctly rated thermostat is fitted.

ScottieJ wrote:I'm sure it'll be running at the right temp, those infra red thermometers are usually +/- 1-2%

In the correct circumstances but they are very vulnerable to radiated heat and reflections. They are more accurate when pointed at a hose rather than the thermostat housing itself because the emissivity of the alloy is quite different to the emissivity that a infra-red thermometer is calibrated for.

Some great replies, cheers chaps.

I drove the car from my house to my workshop today. It got up to working temperature in about normal time, but then just kept climbing, and didn't stop until it was way out in the red.

Got to the garage. Stripped off the rad, check it for flow, it's clear, and no mud in fins etc.
Then stripped off the end casing took the cam-belt off, and removed water pump. Pump and impeller all fine.

So then it was a case of removing the head to investigate.
Clutch was on it's way out anyway, so gathered it'd just be easier to whip the whole donkey out.

Me and Bobb had it out and on the deck in about an hour flat (Taking into account the number of seized bolts, didn't think it was bad time really)..















Truck washed and jetwashed everything off. Waterways are choker block with rad-weld obviously!

Head gasket looked okay to be honest. But could be wrong.
Now I am in two minds whether to get the head skimmed and pressure tested. Or just get another lump.
Issue I will have, is any lump I do buy, I WILL want to rebuild it before it goes in. The 1.0 is already in bits, I did kinda admire the little soldier with it's 4 speed box. It was fun, economical(ish), and quite revvy. At the same time, I'd like to think a good one, will be really bullet proof.

Who knows...


So now I need to either tot up the price of Head gasket set, Cam belt kit, water pump, piston rings, shells, another service kit, head skim and pressure test, and then a load of time re-lapping the valves, and building an engine.

Are the 1 litres worth having? (Good ones?). Or do people really detest them?...



Cheers,


Ben

If you're happy with the performance then I say rebuild it, a secondhand motor is always a bit of a gamble.

I love the little f10a yeah it's a bit underpowered but you can thrash them all day long and try just love it

Just make sure you uses good quality piston rings, I got some off eBay and the quality was questionable

I will probably order everything through my mate, he is the manager at my local MPD.

Shells is my only issue, cant find them online. But as the rods and pistons are out, I'd be a fool not to change them too for what they're probably going to cost.

Lovely SJ, great work - hope she's well again soon!

If I had the time, money and space to do it I'd love to rebuild my SJ engine, but I'd like to do a lot of long distance journeys and taking the back roads takes a lot longer than motorways so I'm going for a 2.0L grand vitara

But I would definitely say the 1.0 f10a engines are brilliant, and surprisingly good on fuel in long distant journeys as I found out myself with mine, wish there was a way I could keep it but I can't :(

I always take A&B roads over motorways no matter how far or what I'm driving, I would rather it take a little longer and enjoy my drive than not be bored out of my mind sat on a motorway