Suzuki Club UK

I think 2" lift is the perfect amount for an SJ, gives you a slightly better breakover angle and doesn't raise the COG enough to affect the stability. there's no steering or driveline mods needed and when combined with a VL it gives you loads of room for tyres and flex.

It also depends on your welding ability, If you cant weld and the arches are good I would raise it to fit the tyres. Then further down the line if you want to step up to 33s, learn how to weld and do a VL.

Iv got a 2.5/3" lift. I take it having more offset rims would be better?

They should go on well then. You may have to fold over the bulkhead seam and trim bumper.

Offset rims or spacers will make them slightly more likely to catch when turning but will be OK.

anton mentioned a Z-bar earlier on, they don't actually work, as the two points being connected are still in the same spots, you're just getting there in a different way, so it won't even effect the bump steer or nothing like that!

I think the reason you fit a Z bar is to allow the steering arm to leave the ball joints in a horizontal plane, and reduce the chance of the ball joints running out of angular movement, if you get what I'm saying. I might be wrong though

I have massive bump steer issues when off roading due to the large travel I have available on the front, and I can't see how it can be avoided. Quite fun the amount of steering input required in a straight line over very undulating ground. at 3mph it's not a problem though. Mine is still low with SPUA set up.

kiwizook wrote:anton mentioned a Z-bar earlier on, they don't actually work, as the two points being connected are still in the same spots, you're just getting there in a different way, so it won't even effect the bump steer or nothing like that!

Z-bars are for lifted vehicles where a standard drag link from the pitman arm wouldn't work due to being at an extremely high angle. As Ladaman says, it's for resetting the ball joints back to parallel, otherwise your steering can bind up on articulation.

We all get bumpsteer to some extent, but a lifted vehicle with a great distance (vertically) between pitman arm and drag link makes it much worse, with or without a Z-bar. Hitting a pothole can become a life threatening experience, especially at high speed. A high steer kit is the remedy, bringing the pitman arm and drag link more into "standard" alignment.

Ladaman - to get rid of bumpsteer, you need a panhard rod the same length as your drag link, at the same angle.

And either a 3/4 eliptic or coil conversion so the axle can move a little bit laterally.

Doesn't really bother me, I don't have enough of it to be a genuine problem.

This is the amount of angle my steering arm gets at full droop. Not a lot I can do about it other than keep an eye on where I'm going when the nearside wheel drops into a hole. It's all normal on the flat.
As I say, it's not a problem when off roading, and the pot holes might be bad, but not that bad.

I have 31"s fitted to my SJ410.
It's got rear springs fitted up front (R.U.F conversion), which works out about a 1.5" lift.
And it's currently on standard rear springs, with a 1.5" shackle lift, although I do want to fit some actual lift springs on the rear at some point, just don't want the usual 3" jobby.

I have no clearance issues at all other than when turned about 1/2 way left or right, while braking down hill, I get a very slight rub from the tyres, I think on the lower bulkhead. But it's not really catching too much, so I will probably give it a few 'calculated dents' with the dead-blow hammer next time then wheels are off. haha!

Flexes up well, goes everywhere I need it to, and it keeps up with the big trucks just fine.

Gearing wise, I have a 1324cc Swift engine fitted, Samurai gearbox, 410 T-box and 410 axles. Gearing is about right.

Ladaman - that's a pretty incredible angle! Have you thought about a drop pitman arm? What's it like under normal load, and when under compression?

Ladaman, some of the bumpsteer off road could actually be to do with the missing links moving laterally, the extra busy probably will allow more movement than you think, that's why I like the design of the trail tough kit, the missing link can't really shift from side to side as its sort of locks onto the resting plate.



A panhard rod would help.

I don't really have any issues with my set up at all, even offroad but I have pretty much no lift

A Z link also helps stop the drag link clear the passenger side spring during articulation. a hi-steer set up is the best way however a lot of them have the issue of messing up the Ackerman angle.