Full float rear

[andyrew]

Can't you just nab a 413 diff and change the ratios On
the front?

I thought standard shafts up front where okay for 31s?

Id contacted rob before regarding a 413 full float kit and he said
He has no plans to get the shafts in. 413s are pretty rare now.

I've decided to go with a nice bearing press and spare shafts.

[mike harris]

It's the diffs which don't last when the shafts explode Andy !!

[mike harris]

:(

[ScottieJ]

The diff won't always get destroyed from a failing shaft, It's mainly if the vehicle carries on getting driven with the snapped shaft.

So what exactly makes ARBs crap?

In the Youtube test the arb lockers get up to 6929lb/ft and there is no damage to the locker yet the shaft it's being tested with fails, these new 33 spline chromos fail at 4689lb/ft so they are still going to break before the ARB would.

At the end of the day it's how the vehicle is driven as well, drive sensibly and know when to back off the throttle and you can make stock axle components survive on 33s easily.

[dan_2k_uk]

All this has got me thinking my ARB might be a front!

Better go check it. The fella I got it from was running uprated shafts so hopefully its correct for my rear!

[Anton]

Andy - I could, but it's going to be easier to just sell the front one and buy a 3.9.

But now I have a set of uprated front shafts on the way, I have no choice anyway.

I'm going to go 3.9:1 front and rear, with a spare 3.9 rear diff I'll keep in the attic in case something goes wrong. By having uprated chromoly steel front shafts, I only need one spare diff - it'll fit front and rear.

I may still go full float rear in a few months, just for the peace of mind - overly strong parts, can't see why not.

I'm going to keep my driveshaft standard, the idea being that they're the easiest part to replace. If I make everything else overkill strong, then the driveshafts become a "fuseable link".

Once I've done the axles, I'm going to brace the transfer case. Then (in theory) a pair of spare driveshafts would be all I need In 99% of offroad misadventures.

I know a properly braced tcase will cope just fine with a 240hp Honda VTEC:
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=37664

So it should cope ok.

[andyrew]

Anton

Wouldn't keeping the the rear diff with arb and bunging that
Up front to go with your new shafts and a lockrite in
The rear be a more cost eeffective way?

Id have thought what you would get money wise for your
Front arb diff would cover the cost of getting a lockrite fitted
In a sami rear.

[Anton]

If I go with a lockright, I'd put it in the back (ooh-err!), but for now I'm just going to go open diff front, ARB rear. Because that's what I have lying around...

I'm still considering what to do, if I'm honest. All I know is that the new front halfshafts mean no 22 spline spider gears for me, so the front ARB will go on sale once I've pulled it out again.

I may go ARB front, open rear. I may go open front, ARB rear. I may go open front, open rear. I may go smash my head into a wall...

[turbo-tom]

Have you read this?

http://www.arb.com.au/getting-started/a ... 0rear_.php

If I personally was to fit them into an axle I would always fit one in the rear first as you will only be kicking your self if you only fit one in the front.

[dan_2k_uk]

All this has got me thinking my ARB might be a front!

Better go check it. The fella I got it from was running uprated shafts so hopefully its correct for my rear!

I'm good!