Suzuki Club UK

andyrew wrote:simply epic

Thanks for the appreciated comment.

If you would like some more info on something that I just went over too quickly. I would be glad to try and answer your questions with pics and info if I can. I would like to make this a good experience for everyone taking the time to stop in.

Sorry, I have nothing else on my inlet to share. Hope you understand it's hard to give up too much info that I worked hard to make.

Ok, going through the achieves for the body prep pics. These are also pics that have not been posted before.

The Zuk is over my buddy shop across from the painter. The primer is on and fogged with the darker color for the finish sand and checking for low spots.

TanZuk wrote:
I seem to remeber you telling me about a miss hap you had not long ago with a bush?
I would have to think very hard on your request for test pilot for the Willys. That will be a real hand full. The bikes I use to build with the Chevy motors did 9.6 sec in the quarter mile and that was a hand full at only 360HP.

I was only joking, I would never expect you to let some guy from the UK drive that beast, Not even sure I would be able to handle it at full throttle, I think the quickest car I've driven was only around 300bhp so not even half what that has



Looks like a lot of prep work has gone into the bodywork! I do have to say the end result is absolutely stunning! I actually really like the fogged effect as well, I know it's purpose was to just check the prep finish but that would be quite a cool paint job with just a clear coat on top

Hi Scott,

Thanks for checking in again.

Yes, I know that you were just joking as I was. It will be quite some time before I get the Willys road worthy. You never know I may just take you up on your offer.

That prep paint was rather a unique color and pattern. It may be very well suited for a paint job with the clear coat as you mentioned.

Here is the insde being painted. This is the last of the body and paint pics that I have.

I have several pics of the front extension being done.
If there is anyone interested in these pics please let me know.


Sooo how many posts does it take to get rid of the Muddy Boots?

TanZuk wrote:Sooo how many posts does it take to get rid of the Muddy Boots?

100 then you will have "Engaged 4wd low"

I kind of wish I had got mine stripped and painted properly now having seen that.

The main problem over here is that more rust will probably turn up after about a year and there will certainly be more chopping going on in the future so the brush effect will have to remain.

One question, you have clearly made a very professional job of the paint and I wondered what the proper process is? What's fogging? How is it sanded?

I just used sanding discs in the grinder and although it did the job for me the finish is a bit rough to say the least.

Keep the great posts coming.

Dan

Thanks Dan for answering my question.

Yes, I understand you not wanting to do a complete body prep and paint if the climate you are in causes the body to continually rust. Florida is also not so good either but I looked very hard for the 2 I have that were very rust free. You have to pay more for the better ones also.

I will give you a couple of products I use to prevent the rust from coming back on a proper patch work. Ospho is a liquid metal prep used after you have done your patch repair( Welded In Patch). Then I use POR 50 this is a black sealant coating that is used to prevent moisture from getting back into the area to start the rust process again. I showed a pic of the firewall repair the black color was the POR 50.

The POR 50 is a bit of a PITA to use though. Once you open the can you really need to use it all at one time. Don't get any on your skin ( Use Gloves ) and you will have to throw away any brushes used. I prefer to get the small I believe it is a 3 ounce can then there is not that big of a problem using it up.

I can’t take credit for the paint. I paid to have this one painted. Just had too much to do with the mods, engine rebuilding, machining up new parts, new inlet and everything that was old or damaged to take that on too.

I can how ever answer some of your questions becuase I do body work when it is needed.

The gray color is a primer sealer. This is used after repair work is done and for sealing the old paint in so it doesn't bleed through your new paint.

The Fogged in color which is just some cheap black paint. This is used to see any low spots when you use a long board to sand the body with. If you are getting a ruff surface you will need to step down your sanding grits until it is better. It is better to use the long board which spreads the sanding in a much larger area and you will be able to do a much better job on the body work.

These disks you were ref to are not the best to use they are just too small of a surface to read the body work. If you are very experienced with body work you may get away with it.. You could pickup a book on body repair for beginners they are very helpful. I have found the materials are very expensive particularly the sand paper. This is another reason I decided to let someone else do it.

Terry


Ospho and POR 50 used on this repair





Here is a Link to the Sanding Boards

http://dura-block.com/durablockline.html

Here is a tip that I do as maintenance to keep the rust down on the DD.

Every couple of weeks I go around the DD and look for any new little spots of rust where there has been paint chipped away for one reason or another. This is because most of the paint is still original and because I live in Florida and the salt issue.

I use a small paint brush and dab some Ospho rust inhibitor on the surface rusted area. I let that dry until it changes the rust color to a grayish color. Then I use another small paint brush and put some touch up paint on it.

This works very well. I had several small spots on the DD when I got it 3 years ago and nothing has gotten any worse. In fact the spots that I took care of then still look good.


Also wanted to mention about the rear hinges on the TT. For some reason there was not much of any primer or paint sprayed under the hinges from the factory. I noticed this on both TT when I had the rear doors off. There was heavy surface rust under both the top and bottom hinges on both TT.

Use sand paper to knock off the heavy rust. Then use the Ospho to take care of the rest, once the rust has been neutralized primer and paint. You may even want to put some POR 50 on before you primer and paint.