Engine overheating or maybe not.

[Fagan123]

Just fitted a new temperature sender unit as the old one was reading low on the gauge. The needle never lifted more than a fraction even after driving 30+ miles. Took the car for a short run with the new sender fitted and within 1/4 mile the needle on the temperature gauge was in the red. The new sender is physically different from the old one, the probe bit is longer on the new one, also the old one is hollow if that makes sense. It's a 1992 Samurai with original 1300 engine. Looks like I've bought the wrong sender. Pretty sure the engine isn't overheating but it's a bit unnerving to see the gauge shoot up to red. Anyone know where I can get the correct sender from. The seller was sure this was the right one but I'm not so sure.

[twiss]

Yeah sounds to me like you've got the wrong one... They should look identical.
I think there is a small rubber/plastic ring on the sender that can be a different colour for different ratings.
Not sure where you got the sender from (ebay?) but I would get one from a motor factors based on your number plate or your VIN number

[courior]

The spanish sammies had a different one to the jap ones. The jap ones have a little nipple connector and the spanish ones have a spade connector. They are rated to match the dashboard temp guage. So get one as your VIN states like twiss mentioned or if u have had a dash swap then get according to your dash.

[Fagan123]

Thanks for the advice lads. Picking up service items for the Vitara tomorrow so will order one using number plate or vin number. Yes Twiss the one I have was bought from Ebay, although it fits it's different and has no plastic collar. Put the old one back in for now, don't like to see the needle go into the red even though I'm pretty sure it's not overheating. Thanks again will post how things work out.

[Fagan123]

Picked another sender unit up from local motor factors today, looked the same as the one off Ebay but fitted it anyway. Took the car out for a run, needle straight into the red in no time at all. Removed it to refit original one. While screwing it in the spanner suddenly began to turn easily, too easily. The thermostat housing had cracked. As this is part of the inlet manifold I will need to replace the whole thing. While I was wondering where the hell I could source one of these I remembered I have a spare engine which came from Jordi when I bought his pick up a while ago. I pulled the tarp off the engine to reveal a complete inlet manifold, well complete apart from temperature sender unit. So back to square one regarding sender unit but at least I have a replacement manifold.
Do I need to fit a proper gasket when I fit the manifold or can I use liquid gasket?
Also is the manifold swap possible with the engine in the car or does it need to be removed first?
It just looks a bit tight in there for tightening the bottom bolts.

[twiss]

Personally I would fit a proper gasket.... and I believe you get get the manifold off with the engine in the car

[donkeychomp]

It's a faff but the manifold does come off without removing the engine. Use some WD40 on the bolts first...

[Fagan123]

Thanks for the advice lads, managed to change the inlet manifold, bit of a faff but easier once I removed the air filter box. The next problem I have is the engine is racing at tickover even when warm with the choke off. Have screwed the tickover screw out fully but it makes no difference. Ticks over erratically between 1200 and 1600 revs. Don't think it's anything I've done while fitting the new manifold, removed carb from manifold but left everything connected (pipes cables) then fitted new manifold and reattached carb. It was racing a bit before the change but now seems to be worse and somewhat erratic. The new manifold is slightly different to the old one in that the bit that the two vacuum pipes plug onto, (don't know what it's called?) was at the front of the old manifold but is at the back of the new one. This is viewed standing at the front of the car looking at the engine. It's a Weber carb. Is there any other way I can reduce the revs.
One day, hopefully, I will have enough experience too be able help others out with their problems but for now it's seems it's all take and no give.

[twiss]

Sounds like theres an air leak of some kind which is letting the revs go up
I would check all of the hoses make sure none of them split slightly

Also take off and block up some of the vacuum hoses to see if they make a difference

[ScottieJ]

Personally although a bit more expensive I always buy temp senders from a Suzuki dealer...it's the only way to make sure you get the right one