Anton's build

[donkeychomp]

Yep P6 is half Vitty lol.

[Anton]

I'm going to give Rockwatt the dimensions and see what kind of price he quotes. I like the width as it is now, I just want to lower my vehicle a bit and virtual lift it a bit.

Rockwatt said he's making a few sets in the new year, so now seems like a good time to order a kit specifially the size I want. He seems to think he can make it so it's exactly the right size without me needing to make shims or spacers - so I'd have a completely bolt-on kit! That'd be pretty good for my truck.

Donkeychomp: I think your wheels aren't as far backspaced as mine, I think we have a similar overall track width at the moment. I don't want to space out my truck as that's just inviting bearing failure when I go to 33's (which I may or may not do next year).

[ScottieJ]

I always prefer a lower COG for stability. My blue SJ is too wide, especially at the back with the full float and 10"wide wheels, not only does it make it harder to cover the tyres in a way that it looks nice to stay legal it also reduces offroad capability in my mind as you can't squeeze through small gaps anymore.

[Jordi]

Just shorten a samurai / vitara back axle.

[andyrew]

if i was going down the narrowed axle route i think id go for a vit axle due to low prices
and a much easier availability now/then over sami axles. im guessing the rear diff is stronger?
also the different ratios available is handy.

but then again with matching sami axles i like the fact you can interchange the diffs (if running uprated front shafts) should the rear one decide it doesnt want to play anymore in the middle of nowhere. this prevents driving in fwd only to get home which seems to kill t boxes.


so there you have it. im no help whatsoever

[ScottieJ]

Shortened vit rear all the way! The vit rear diff is not far off the strength of a Yota diff. It's the way I'm going with all future builds and I want to build a custom front axle with a vit rear diff.

[Anton]

I think I'll find out from Rich (when the yule is over) what the 413 axle based FF kit would cost before I make any decisions on which route to take.

Thanks for the advice so far, guys!

[Anton]

Health's improved a touch, so today I got the wheel that leaks and welded up the valve hole, redrilled it - and lo and behold, it was out of round again! Not sure what was going on, so drilled a whole new valve hole and welded the old one up.

Stripped the wheel (not that well, but it's an offroader and I'm not very well at the mo) and painted it black. I got 4 rattlecans of black at my local pound shop, so I'll repaint all 4 at some point.

I'll get the tyre back on the rim in the next few days (got a lot on at the moment) and then I just need to get my backside in gear and swap the seats.

And the t-case, and the halfshafts, and and and...

[Anton]

Sorted a really stupid, niggly problem yesterday:





Then today I go looking for the reason why my front driver side wheel has started to grab.

Left side looks like this:





Ok, the bushes need replacing, but I have a spare set kicking around.

Right side:





That's might need adjustment then.

Fudge.

I have a pair of spare springs, so that's going to be ok, but that shock tower is totally snafu.

So I guess I have to replace them both now.

It's got to be ok to make something stronger, right? Legally speaking?

I'm thinking of making something out of box section.

Maybe something like this:



Thoughts, gents?

[ScottieJ]

I have a feeling someone hasn't got the bumpstops at the correct height and has been bottoming out the shocks

I made mine out of box section, dont forget to add spreader plates to the chassis first.