Tramps Truck,

[zook123]

That Vit looks like a Hot Wheels toy!

[dan_2k_uk]

I would imagine the Webber would fit the g16 manifold. They are slightly larger than the g13. No idea on clearing the bonnet as I'm not too familiar with the sizing of the Webber compared to an SU.

The exhaust manifold will bolt up.

[andyrew]

From my eventful yet short lived vit lump experience.

1.3 inlet is easiest. The weber uses a throttle bracket that only suits
the 1.3 manifold and not the 1.6 carb jobby.

1.3 exhaust manifold
Swap the dizzy over and other usual bits.
you could swap the sump but with your lift you probably have clearance for the vit sump.

I ran with a brand new sami rad and had no heat problems
at all, if it was used more off road and the rad was clogged
up a bit i could see issues. My little sami has never had over heating issues. So a sami rad is okay or my temp guage is borked.

Skinny starter is a good idea.

Adapter plate is a good idea

As your carb is an older webber you sould have a couple of extra mm clearance than i did. The later webbers have a plastic spacer on the bottom of the carb to clear the later larger throttle cable linkage doohickey on the manifold. Yours being an older one should have a smaller one so the carb should be 4-5mm lower anyway. To gain more clearance i swapped the stud and nut on the plenum to a buttonhead bolt and trimed 5 mm off the base of the plenum top.

I can grab some photos if need be.

Oil pump failing, windscreen smashing and shagged gearbox is optional. If i was doing it again id avoid these three things.

[ScottieJ]

I would grab the rest of the wiring and ecu etc......run the injection.

personally i think the 1.3 inlet is ok but it's best to run the 1.6 exhaust manifold, the 1.3 restricts them slightly. unless you have an aftermarket manifold.

[Jordi]

I went SU carb on mine. Used a modded 1.3 inlet and my 1.3 exhaust manifold (do have a janspeed to fit).

Adaptor plates is easiest.

If you do go carb need an electric fuel pump.

[Tramp]

So..... this has been on the back burner for a while, things were tight at the start of the year so Instead of the occasional run to work I was doing, I didn't use it much at all and stuck with the daily oil burner instead, things are more settled now & the tax,not & insurance expired, so I can address this again, I had a look at the inlet manifold today, I couldn't help but wonder if my carb would fit on the unscrewed spin point, basically it didn't, the width was the same but the length was different. Realising this I decided to remove the inlet,



Looking inside the cylinder head inlet,



I can see some rust on the valve stem and a bit of residue on the back of the valve, I know the engine was outside a few months before it made its way to me,

Is this acceptable or do I need to strip it down and replace or clean these up?

Secondly, the Starter motor



How do I know if it's a skinny starter or not? If it helps it looks small!

[ROBBIE]

Post a pic of the full starter

[Tramp]

Yeah Robbie, no probs



Can you tell from this photo? Or do I need to turn it over (or measure something?)

[mike harris]

Skinny

[Tramp]

It’s me again! Guess what? I’m back, that SJ bug never really goes away does it?

Well times come around to make a start on my Suzuki again, I’ve had a bit of turmoil in my life, but it’s given me the chance to put some focus back on my Suzuki!

So I came to move it and I couldn’t get it to start, it turns out the fuel hose I fitted in 2016 had failed it looked like it had perished and it had worn a hole in it - I guess it serves me right for buying Ebay special fuel hose even if it looked the part





The next thing I needed to address was the reverse light that wasn’t working,



The switch was replaced and now it is working!

And today I insured it - £196 for the year,



I’ll ring up tomorrow and see if I can get it in for an mot at the end of the week!