Anton's build

[ScottieJ]

The wiring will be there in the loom somewhere, you just need to find the wires of the correct colours.

You want to find
Under the dash all possibly attached to the fog light switch.
1.white
2.Green w/blue tracer
3.Green w/black tracer

At the back coming out of the loom at the bumper
1. Green w/blue tracer
2. Green w/black tracer

[andyrew]

My rear fog was always a problem on my kja. Every mot it would play up

I ran fresh new wiring and a new relay so it can't come on without the side lights being on.

I used the switched earth to the earth of the relay. But if your fitting a new interior switch that illuminates the earth for the switch must be joined to the switch earth from the headlight too.

[turbo-tom]

it could be worse i guess! atleast you can have a start with the list to get the important things done

[Jordi]

MOT?

[Anton]

MOT?

Health issues returned, so I had to put it all on the backburner for a while.

Hoping that soon, I can pull the rear halfshafts and check them for trueness. If they're bent, I'll just get a whole new rear axle. If they're true, and the bearings are just shot (that's what I'm hoping for!) then I'll just get some new bearings on and hopefully that'll be the end of the issues.

The wheels seem to run true when they've got weight on them, which makes me think that the problem is just the bearings. I'm planning on replacing all of the seals and bearings in both axles anyway.

We'll have to wait and see...

[Jordi]

Cheers for the update Anton. Hope your well enough to crack on soon.

Need to try and get that on the road before Andys LWB saga.

[Anton]

Ok, so - I've bought 2 rear axle bearing kits (bearing plus seal), 2 front axle kingpin bearing kits, 2 front axle bearing kits, and a torque wrench.

So 10 bearings, about 6 bearing seals, and I already have a front axle swivel seal set.

The only thing I haven't bought is a new set of kingpins - bearings yes, actual kingpins, no. Hopefully the ones I have are ok, otherwise I'll have to add another £40(ish) for new kingpins. I'm pretty sure I have a set of kingpins kicking about from another axle, so between the 2 sets, I should have 2 good kingpins. We'll see.

Plan is to pull the rear halfshafts and check them for trueness. Then use a laser spirit level thingy to check the rear axle casing (the plan is to aim it at the back of the casing from side to side, and see if the axle tubes are "level" all the way down the length of the casing).

If the halfshafts are true (just going to put them up against one another and turn them, if they're bowed it should be easy enough to tell, shouldn't it?) and the casing isn't b0rked, then I'll just replace the bearings on the rear axle and hopefully that'll be that on the rear. If the casing is b0rked, I'll have to get a new axle, and I'll keep the halfshafts as spares - if the halfshafts are bowed, I'll throw everything out and get a new axle.

New stuff is good, paying for it, not so much...

Then I'll move to the front and do a complete teardown and rebuild, and whilst the halfshafts are out, get the fronts upgraded with the birf rings I have knocking about.

It's spendy, but you know what they say - if a job's worth doing...

After this, I'll have reconditioned everything in the drivetrain except the front UJ and the t-case - but I have a 410 fat prop t-case that I'll recon, fit the x-eng t-case brake I bought a blue age ago, build a high strength gusset for it with bigass mounts and spend a day fitting/welding that in. Proper job.

Then I still have to get the pinion seals on the new ARB diffs done, and get those badboys in.

And.... And... And...

[Jordi]

Busy again then mate. Sounds the drive train will be silky smooth once it's all done.

[Ladaman]

Nice to hear you are back on with it, so your health must have improved so thats a bonus too.

I've just had to change a half shaft, as I found the bearing was shot. I only noticed this when changing the shoes, the cage had disappeared, so you might be lucky.

To check the trueness of the rear axle casing, can you clamp on a straight edge on the end faces and measure the distace/length. Rotate 90 degrees and measure again? Possibly easier and simpler to identify than with a "gadget".

Take it easy.

[turbo-tom]

Sounds like a plan are you running back and front arb's?