MG410 Steering Easy to Left, Hard to Right

[courior]

I havent really tried 4x4 mode much (or removed the damper).... instead of finding some mud to test (not safe on tarmac) is there any manual test? ie, shake it with my hands/crow bar? .. OR maybe if i engage the front locking hubs and turn would that be a good test as it would make the joints twist just the same no?

Ive noticed that my turning circle to the right is not as good as to the left... I can do a U Turn to the left, but in the same street i cant do it to the right... i dont think a CV would cause that?

Cheers.

[twiss]

Might do... but might be possible that the damper isnt opening/closing all the way.
Honestly if its got one just take it off and see. I've been damper-less for about 2 years now and it doesn't really make any difference

[courior]

With working shifts and a 3 year old kid, I don't get time on the weekends for cars. But come the weekdays that damper is most certainly coming off!

The fact you have been without it for years is reassuring as well cheers mate

[twiss]

Don't get me wrong though it will reduce a bit of bumpsteer, I would put one on again once you've diagnosed the but its only a couple of bolts to test it
Ive been meaning to put it back on but I haven't got round to it

[ScottieJ]

Yes CVs can limit the steering quite a bit if there is a problem. Driving at a slow speed in 4wd on Tarmac won't hurt. I.e a few 3 point turns at full lock in both directions, you'll soon hear some clicking if it is a CV. It's only 2 bolts to remove the steering damper. Will take 5 mins.

[courior]

So here is what has happened over the last couple of days. First off I stripped down to the knuckle the passenger front wheel and changed the wheel bearings. I checked the inner oil seal and seems to be ok. Re greased everything and put it all back together wrong and then had to it about 3 times till it ask went back properly. Then I put new pads and discs on. I have find that my lower kingpin bearings are a little lose, the same on each side so I will re shim then later and put new knuckle seals as some of the CV grease is leaking out onto the axle bell end.

After this I went to a gravelly area and tried going round in circles in 4low and couldn't hear any clocks or clangs even trough the CV had a bit of play when I checked manually. I also noticed that my turning radius is the same both ways. I took the steering damper off to try but the steering was not much lighter and I had a major death wobble at 20mph so out went straight back on and I adjust up the steering box which makes it feel a little better.

But now the bearing rumble is gone and I can start to enjoy my gypsy!! Thanks to all who helped and those who made guides as were perfect!

[courior]

I wrote all of that on a mobile so excuse the crap spelling and auto correct!

[twiss]

Sounds good! If the kingpin and their bearings are a bit worn and have a small amount of play you can usually get rid of it by removing one or all of the shims (depending how many you have on there!)

Just keep them for later as you will probably want them for putting new bearings in

You will probably find that the loose kingpins are the reason for the 20mph death wobble

bell end

Just a quick bit of advice, we usually call that bit the swivel joint or cup...
Bell end means something completely different and slightly inappropriate

[courior]

Lol I know what a bell end is London born and bred mate. But you understood what I meant eh! And I swear that's what its called on one of the documents I found. Prob an American guide or something, I don't think it means the same thing as over in blighty

My next plan, when I find time, is to replace the knuckle to swivel cup seals and shim the kingpins. Can this be done without taking all the hub etc off? I think its possible going from todays experience and all the diagrams I found.

Cheers

Courior

[twiss]

You can sort of do it without taking the hub off... but its better to remove the whole hub (driveshaft and all)

In the service manual it says you can cut the swivel seal and put it on with the cut at the top.
This means all you have to take off is the old seal, felts and retaining plates... then pop the new seal in
Lots of people say its better to take the whole hub and shaft out so you don't have to cut it, but Ive been running one cut, one whole for a few years now and I honestly don't think it makes a difference.

My drivers side (cut) hasn't gotten any worse than the passenger side.

Only thing you should bear in mind... if you take the whole hub unit off with the shaft still in there, its very easy to break the axle oil seal when you put the shaft back in so you have to be careful.

Kingpins are easy though... you will have to take the oil seal+felts+retainers off to pull the hub off to get to them so might as well do it all at the same time