Suzuki Club UK

If you manage to fix your carb tell us how it's done! Mine was swapped around 5years ago to be replaced with a twin choke weber, which is an easy conversion (as in you font have to change the inlet manifold, drill a hole in your bonnet or change the airbox. As for your existing carb, well, most issues arise from the choke not operating correctly, it has a thermal wax unit which operates the mechanism and is it gets older it stops working properly generally causing the choke to stick half on even when fully warm, some people have had success removing the 'auto' choke mechanism and replacing it with a manual device, apparently you could buy an aftermarket kit to do this, unfortunately I don't think these are available any more,

This link may be of some help to you
http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php ... 3ec58ef751

Tramp - that's a point in the right direction anyway!!! The choke might be the main culprit. I saw replacement wax pellet choke mechanisms on an Aussie site. Unsure if price tho as it wasn't listed.

Anyone have thoughts on the effect cracked exhaust manifold might have or the accelerator pump arm hitting the intake plenum?

You can take the choke butterfly out of the carb and it should stop the stalling problem, but it will run like crap until it has warmed up!
Personally I would spend the extra and replace the carb.... its a very common fault as others have said!
I've had 4 different standard carbs when I had 1300 engines and they were all rubbish!
You can find good ones around, or you can rebuild it, but Im not really sure it's worth the time and effort to be honest!
Since going SU I haven't really had any carb related running problems...
apart from when the dashpot screws all went missing and the carb came apart - but even with the carb in 2 pieces the engine still ran, it just wouldn't idle!

Weber carbs run pretty well, but they can be a bit juicy on fuel consumption... and without modification they can stall if you are going up a REALLY steep hill

Unfortunately as other have already said the common remedy for the choke problem is to replace with an alternative.

The SU is my weapon of choice.

However I would first try linking out the shutoff solenoid to the battery and taking it for a test drive in case it is a electrical fault causing the stalling.

This is the single black wire to the solenoid you have already tried.

My fuel stop solenoid has two wires, one live feed black w/white tracer and a black earth?

Twiss - thanks for the advice. Seems I might just have to put off testing the sami and wait until I have the money for a carb. I have an offer of a webber at a good price, so I think that will be the way to go. I don't have a welder either, so making up an adapter for an SU is out of the question.

Dan - I'm not clear what you are saying? Are you suggesting I hardwire the solenoid with a 12v supply directly from battery and run it like this as a trial?

I might have the wiring confused as I have been on the SU so long but you are correct in what I am suggesting.

At least it rules it out.

Check your timing, engine will still run timed wrong but not very well, also make sure all your inlet gasket"s and hose"s are all air tight, any splits letting air in will weaken mixture and add to any other carb problems!!

Ran it with fuel solenoid connected to battery, no improvement. All gaskets and hoses are airtight. Double checked by spraying carb cleaner, engine didn't die off at all. Timing is 100%, compression is good and is equal on all cylinders (just in case).

Tried approaching a stop but knocking it into neutral and coasting up to it, doesn't die until I start braking and just nearly stop.

On a more positive note I chopped out the rotten sills today and fitted box steel. Just need to get it welded in now.

And on a less positive note, found my passenger footwell soaked in water today. Presume it's leaking somewhere after a few days rain and it not being parked in the garage for a few days.

The wet foot well might be the air intake for the heater filling up. Try poking something up the two little right angle drain pipes in the engine bay to check its clear.