Samurai stalling at junctions/stops

[Bernard.Concannon]

Hi all,

I'll try to be as descriptive as possible, but please feel free to ask about anything I have left out.

-1989 Samurai, bought as a project. It was running, barely.
-Removed engine, stripped and cleaned it. Changed most seals (didn't go near valves or pistons)
-New timing belt, water pump, clutch
-Re-instaleld engine
-Was running poorly, had an old-school mechanic check it out, he said last owner and messed with every setting on the carb. He got it as good as he could, but said carb was fairly worn out. Main problem was that when driving, if you approached a junction and slowed down to stop, it would stall. Not a big jumpy stall, it would just die quietly with all the ignition lights lighting on the dash. You can stop it doing this if you keep the revs up manually while slowing down.
-Got a second hand carb which I was assured was in good shape. I installed that, and had same mechanic tune it. Ran a bit smoother than the old one alright, but same problem with stalling when slowing down while driving. Mechanic mentioned that it was running slightly rich the whole time (you can smell it). He said something about a piston related to the choke not closing fully...I'm not clear on the detail here. (But apparently it was the same on both carbs. (Both carbs are hot water choke.)
-I've sprayed carb cleaner into the throat while revving it, and sprayed all the outside and any moving parts I spotted.
-Checked the idle solenoid by applying 12v from battery - it clicks.
-Haven't stripped carb, removed any jets or blown any passageways - I've seen the strip down guide - but I guess I am trying to avoid having to do that and totally fu*k up the carb???
- Carb revs higher while warming up, then revs drop as engine warms. (This is what I'd expect to see)
-I noticed that the arm on the accelerator pump hits the air intake cover if I move it manually. This stops it from moving through it's full range...does this matter? There is no seal between the cover and top of carb to raise the cover a bit. I ran it for a few minutes down the road with the cover loose, but it still stalled at stop signs.
-All in all it runs and drives well, starts instantly, even after a stall. The odd time it will die while stopped and idling, just out of nowhere.
-I've changed the fuel filter in the wheel well, and I've added a clear inline one right before fuel line enters carb.
-Final thought, my exhaust manifold has a crack in it, and you can smell exhaust gases if you run it in the garage with the bonnet open - would this possibly affect the stalling when slowing to a stop.

Any advice would be very much appreciated!!!

I have been offered a webber carb at a decent price, but I would like to keep the original if possible. (Will a webber give any difficulty passing emmissions in NCT roadworthtiness test?)

[dazerede]

If I jump in my sj naw and drive straight off and get to a junction my sj will stall aswell as I didn't let the engine warm up as I have a choke on my sj

But naw I allways let it warm up a bit maby say 3 minutes or soo

Can u post some pics of the carb
The Webber is a good carb mate but most of the,sjs have put su carbs on

[Bernard.Concannon]

Daverede - thanks for the quick reply.

Mine does this even once warmed up.

I do very little off roading, and even at that it's more green laning than anything hardcore, so I am not concerned with any incline related issues for the various carbs. As I mentioned in original post, I would prefer to stick with original carb - if realistically possible with little trouble - otherwise I have an offer of a webber.

I'm at work at the moemnt, so can't post pics, but I will take some tonight. Is there anything specific that you need to see on the carb?

[Jordi]

Standard carbs are notoriously cak!

Most of us with 1.3 / 1.6 have swapped to SU hif44 carbs.

[Bernard.Concannon]

Jordi - thanks for replying - much appreciated!

Am I likely to get any advice from a guru out there who can advice on working with the issue at hand with my factory carb?

Or do I just junk it, and as the last two posts have suggested - go with the crowd and get an SU? If I do - what's needed? An adapter plate? A new airbox? Where do I get one - new or used? What models would have used the SU hif44?

[dazerede]

You will need to get or make a manafold like this mate

[ScottieJ]

Is the fuel stop solenoid wired up on the carb and working properly? no broken wires or anything?

To me it sounds like it could be a suspect.

[Ladaman]

When I got my Sammy I had exactly the same issues and thoughts as you, keep it standard.

I had the carb apart more times then I can remember.

Some journeys it would purr along, then for no reason continually stall, but restart instantly. Occasionally it would just start over revving for no reason (sounds like you have that to come).

I agree with the others, they are very over complicated carbs, look to change to something else. Im sure you wont regret it.

[Bernard.Concannon]

Scottie - the fuel stop, same as the idle solenoid? Fed by a single black wire?

If it's the same one - I checked that it clicks with a direct 12v supply from battery, and if you listen clearly when turning ignition to "On" the solenoid clicks. Is that all you can do to determine if its working?

Is there anything behind that solenoid that needs to be blown out or checked for blockages?

[Bernard.Concannon]

Ladaman - yes it sounds like most people made the same decision as you - swap it out.

Unfortuantely I have to seriously consider the financial aspect of making a change in carburettor. This is not my daily driver, and to be honest I wish I had money to pour into it and do all the repairs/mods I can think of...but I just don't have it. So....for now, unless it's a very last resort, I'd like to try and get the origianl carb going properly. (This might sound like madness to most of you - just swap it and be done with it - but let's say it's not an option for me at the moment!)