Full floating axle

[Anton]

To remove a full float shaft from the rear axle it takes all of 1 minute if that, 6 bolts and it pulls out

Plus the point of fitting the full float conversion is so that you do not have to worry about them breaking, They are probably twice as strong as a standard half shaft and I've never broken a standard one, even on 33s with a 1.6 and 4.6:1 low box (now 7.6:1)

The rear axle is pushing rather than pulling so yes it does see more forces than on the front, hence why it is a lot more common to blow up a rear diff than a front. Also once the shafts are upgraded the freewheeling hubs will become a weak link, this is probably a bad example as he broke everything but it's not the only time I have seen a FWH fail on US sites.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzuki/8 ... s-0-a.html
I don't know about you but I would not want to swap over to the hilux hub studs either as they are a pain in the **se when it comes to getting the hub body off and I don't like beating the s**t into the hub body with a copper hammer to get them off There is the option of drilling and tapping the hubs for larger bolts but personally I'd rather just run fixed drive flanges that I can pull off quickly if I ever need to.

I get what you're saying about the shafts coming out real easy, but if you've smashed one into little bits, it's better not to have your rear diff turning in case bits of it decide to interact with the ring gear and pignion...

I suppose just pulling off the hub flanges would do the same job though, and it's not hard to get those out.

And yeah, the yota bolts can be a real pita. HPOC Scottie has to deal with 'em though, not me!

But yeah, the whole idea of making everything much stronger really appeals to me, because as I said before, swapping out driveshafts is the easiest fix.

I'm going to run a bit of plate down the chassis on mine to protect the brakelines and such, so if the driveshaft does shear, it doesn't take out the brakes on mine - I know it's happened! And I've got the old 4 pipe crossover setup (left front connected to rear right and vice versa) so taking out both pipes on the back leaves me with the t-case brake *only*...

I've got a pair of 413 axles sitting around right now - slowly being stripped for bits. Just wondering how difficult it would be to make everything and then get richard to make me up the driveshafts - I don't really have the money for the kit at the moment!