DIY Fuel tank

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windsor
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Re: Fuel tank sizes and sender units

Post by windsor » Fri May 24, 2013 2:29 pm

Sounds like a plan
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ScottieJ
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Re: Fuel tank sizes and sender units

Post by ScottieJ » Fri May 24, 2013 2:34 pm

I would just make one the same sort of size as the original but a cube, will get quite a bit more capacity.
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Jordi
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Re: Fuel tank sizes and sender units

Post by Jordi » Fri May 24, 2013 2:36 pm

Thats pretty much what i've done Scott. Slightly longer too.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

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Re: Fuel tank sizes and sender units

Post by ScottieJ » Fri May 24, 2013 2:44 pm

:thumbup: I don't think you really need much more capacity than stock, one tank always lasts a day out offroading easily enough.
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Re: Fuel tank sizes and sender units

Post by timwilks13 » Fri May 24, 2013 2:55 pm

Not if your stock tank has had the bottom push so far in you've reduced the capacity to about 30L !!
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Re: Fuel tank sizes and sender units

Post by Jordi » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:08 pm

Been thinking on this one and I'm going to have a go at making a tank. Googled about (hot rod forums, pirate 4x4, bike forums) and it seems quite common.

The plan is a sloping bottom with the shallow end as deep as a standard tank with the sender at that end, fuel pick up at the deep end (obvious I know). Sized to be 50-60lts.

Folded steel to make the bottom, 2 sides and the top. Recessed plate seam welded in for the ends of it. Probably make an inspection hatch on the top of it and weld captive nuts on the inside and use a petrol safe rubber gasket.

You can buy various sealants and liner paints that seal any pin holes in the welds.

Then mount it on a sloped frame so the top of it sits level.

There's a good fuel tank and radiator place in Darlington that can pressure test it for leaks for me.

Sounds simple enough.

Edit:- months ago a machine shop was going to make one, as well as a few other bits. After 6 weeks of nothing it all go knocked on the head.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

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turbo-tom
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Re: DIY Fuel tank

Post by turbo-tom » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:32 pm

Wont it be better to the put the sender at the deep end bud? so when the guage starts to read empty to you know that you have a small amount of petrol in the "shallow" end to get you to the nearest petrol station ?
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Jordi
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Re: DIY Fuel tank

Post by Jordi » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:41 pm

That's why it goes in the shallow end so the float hits the bottom first.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

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Re: DIY Fuel tank

Post by turbo-tom » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:54 pm

Yeah but i thought if you was to put it in the deeper end you will then have some left below the sender but I guess doing it your way it will register full for longer

Ignore me ill go back to coursework! :lol:
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Jordi
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Re: DIY Fuel tank

Post by Jordi » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:05 pm

I think we mean the same thing but have explained it differently. The gauge will read empty before the tank is.
1988 Samurai - Truck Cab & Tray Back - 1.6 8v & HIF44 - Snorkel - Stack Exhaust - PAS, YJs & 33s - Trussed, Gusseted & Pumpkin Capped Axles - 4.3 R&Ps - 4.16 T/Box - Rear Air Locker - Full Float Back Axle & Discs - RCV Front Shafts - X-Eng Handbrake - Custom Fuel Tank

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