bush removal help.

[mk1joe]

hi, ive started striping my rear leafs out ready for the adda leaf kit and the first one came out flawless, now come around to the second one and the bolt in the front bush is stuck. all the other bolts are out its just this one. it turns very slowly so this means the bolt is rusted to the metal bush sleve thing. ive tried wd40 - heating it up - wacking it with a hammer but to no success. so i wondered if theres any other trick. i dont really have much clue how hot it needs to be for the torch to work, weather too much would damage the springs or anything i dont know but i would realy apreciate any help.
thanks a load
joe

[chrisj410]

I just got a drill and drilled the old rubber out mate
Plus the springs are tempered so if you heat the springs up let them cool on there own
you'll be pleased with it, it's a good kit that

[Darrell]

I had one bolt on mine rust into the sleeve and no heat or hammer would shift it (to be honest you cannot get the heat where you need it). I undid the nut and prized the spring hanger out a little (Quite easy not very thick) (red arrow) leaving me enough room to use a 1mm cutting disc in an angle grinder to cut the bolt off (green arrow). Then cut the bolt head off using said grinder. A bit of wiggling and the leaf spring will be out, ok you need a new bolt but there nothing special and can be purchased at any good ironmonger. Hope that was what your after

untitled.JPG (22.64 KiB) Viewed 12813 times

Any excuse for a diagram

O and the bolt was rated 8.8 standard/normal strength, don't be tempted to use just a bit of threaded bar.

[ScottieJ]

Darrell has got it in one, I've had to do that loads of times on various sjs, the worst you'll do is take a bit of paint off of you are careful.

[mk1joe]

ok, thanks everyone. my new pollybushes are coming within 4-5 days so i have till then to get this bolt out and the springs painted and rebuilt, greese between the leaves aswell??
thanks again
joe

[chrisj410]

I wouldn't bother painting it mate, get all the crud out then oil/grease erm up then jobs a goodern

[mk1joe]

thanks everyone,
the rears are done now but i havnt been able to find a replacement bolt, started on the front now and looks like the same thing, problem is i cant get to a nut and bolt shop during the day because im working so could anyone tell me where i could order some from or if anyones got some spares for me.
next thing is my axles, theres horrible sludge over one of my front hubs, is this just the axle oil seal? and where can i get the cheapest ones?
thanks much
joe

[Darrell]

I got my bolts from these guys. Don't forget some nyloc nuts and washers.
M12 100mm zinc plated bolts 8.8

http://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_ ... 12_25.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

bolts.JPG (42.92 KiB) Viewed 12747 times

A lot of people have the axle seals leak when the king pin or wheel bearings are worn. Jack it up and check for play before going any further.

Seal is just a 26/38/8 r23 about a fiver.
A 26/38/7 r23 will do just as well for only a couple of quid.
These guys are hard to beat http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Darrell]

I had one bolt on mine rust into the sleeve and no heat or hammer would shift it (to be honest you cannot get the heat where you need it). I undid the nut and prized the spring hanger out a little (Quite easy not very thick) (red arrow) leaving me enough room to use a 1mm cutting disc in an angle grinder to cut the bolt off (green arrow). Then cut the bolt head off using said grinder. A bit of wiggling and the leaf spring will be out, ok you need a new bolt but there nothing special and can be purchased at any good ironmonger. Hope that was what your after

untitled.JPG

Any excuse for a diagram

O and the bolt was rated 8.8 standard/normal strength, don't be tempted to use just a bit of threaded bar.

Bugger
Had to do this again tonight as half the loop has snapped off the top spring (chassis end). No wonder it handled even more crap than usual and the bolt was rotating in the chassis as the sleeve is rusted/seized in the bush as well
Nicked the top leaf off my original springs as I have pro comp 2" lift springs. Are they shite, the other bugger only snapped a year or so ago.

[ScottieJ]

Never good! A liberal coat of copper ease on the bolts helps reduce the likelyhood of the bolt welding itself to the sleeve. Won't stop it but will make it take a while longer to happen.