Yeah, thermostat is fitted. I got the figure from a laser thermostat...thingy. Checked the thermostat housing and the top of the rad after a long run.ScottieJ wrote:Presume it has a thermostat fitted? Also where are you getting the figure 75* from?Edweird wrote:I have the opposite problem. My 410 doesn't seem to get properly hot. Seems to stop at about 75 degrees unless I plant my boot through the floor for a good five minutes.
SJ410 over heating
- Edweird
- Suzuki, will you marry me?
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Re: SJ410 over heating
There's three ways of doing things:
The right way,
The wrong way
And my way, which is like the wrong way but faster.
The right way,
The wrong way
And my way, which is like the wrong way but faster.
Re: SJ410 over heating
I'm sure it'll be running at the right temp, those infra red thermometers are usually +/- 1-2% and the temp will fluctuate slightly depending on if the thermostat has just opened/closed.
I wouldn't worry about it as long as a correctly rated thermostat is fitted.
I wouldn't worry about it as long as a correctly rated thermostat is fitted.
Re: SJ410 over heating
In the correct circumstances but they are very vulnerable to radiated heat and reflections. They are more accurate when pointed at a hose rather than the thermostat housing itself because the emissivity of the alloy is quite different to the emissivity that a infra-red thermometer is calibrated for.ScottieJ wrote:I'm sure it'll be running at the right temp, those infra red thermometers are usually +/- 1-2%
2006 Jimny JLX+ 1.3 VVT
2000 Vitara 4u2 - Calmini 3+3, 33" MTs, 5:83 R&Ps, winch bumper, remapped ECU.
1986 Suzuki SJ413K - G16 conversion
1984 Suzuki SJ410 - Blitz
2000 Vitara 4u2 - Calmini 3+3, 33" MTs, 5:83 R&Ps, winch bumper, remapped ECU.
1986 Suzuki SJ413K - G16 conversion
1984 Suzuki SJ410 - Blitz
Re: SJ410 over heating
Some great replies, cheers chaps.
I drove the car from my house to my workshop today. It got up to working temperature in about normal time, but then just kept climbing, and didn't stop until it was way out in the red.
Got to the garage. Stripped off the rad, check it for flow, it's clear, and no mud in fins etc.
Then stripped off the end casing took the cam-belt off, and removed water pump. Pump and impeller all fine.
So then it was a case of removing the head to investigate.
Clutch was on it's way out anyway, so gathered it'd just be easier to whip the whole donkey out.
Me and Bobb had it out and on the deck in about an hour flat (Taking into account the number of seized bolts, didn't think it was bad time really)..
Truck washed and jetwashed everything off. Waterways are choker block with rad-weld obviously!
Head gasket looked okay to be honest. But could be wrong.
Now I am in two minds whether to get the head skimmed and pressure tested. Or just get another lump.
Issue I will have, is any lump I do buy, I WILL want to rebuild it before it goes in. The 1.0 is already in bits, I did kinda admire the little soldier with it's 4 speed box. It was fun, economical(ish), and quite revvy. At the same time, I'd like to think a good one, will be really bullet proof.
Who knows...
So now I need to either tot up the price of Head gasket set, Cam belt kit, water pump, piston rings, shells, another service kit, head skim and pressure test, and then a load of time re-lapping the valves, and building an engine.
Are the 1 litres worth having? (Good ones?). Or do people really detest them?...
Cheers,
Ben
I drove the car from my house to my workshop today. It got up to working temperature in about normal time, but then just kept climbing, and didn't stop until it was way out in the red.
Got to the garage. Stripped off the rad, check it for flow, it's clear, and no mud in fins etc.
Then stripped off the end casing took the cam-belt off, and removed water pump. Pump and impeller all fine.
So then it was a case of removing the head to investigate.
Clutch was on it's way out anyway, so gathered it'd just be easier to whip the whole donkey out.
Me and Bobb had it out and on the deck in about an hour flat (Taking into account the number of seized bolts, didn't think it was bad time really)..
Truck washed and jetwashed everything off. Waterways are choker block with rad-weld obviously!
Head gasket looked okay to be honest. But could be wrong.
Now I am in two minds whether to get the head skimmed and pressure tested. Or just get another lump.
Issue I will have, is any lump I do buy, I WILL want to rebuild it before it goes in. The 1.0 is already in bits, I did kinda admire the little soldier with it's 4 speed box. It was fun, economical(ish), and quite revvy. At the same time, I'd like to think a good one, will be really bullet proof.
Who knows...
So now I need to either tot up the price of Head gasket set, Cam belt kit, water pump, piston rings, shells, another service kit, head skim and pressure test, and then a load of time re-lapping the valves, and building an engine.
Are the 1 litres worth having? (Good ones?). Or do people really detest them?...
Cheers,
Ben
Last edited by binge on Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: SJ410 over heating
If you're happy with the performance then I say rebuild it, a secondhand motor is always a bit of a gamble.
2006 Jimny JLX+ 1.3 VVT
2000 Vitara 4u2 - Calmini 3+3, 33" MTs, 5:83 R&Ps, winch bumper, remapped ECU.
1986 Suzuki SJ413K - G16 conversion
1984 Suzuki SJ410 - Blitz
2000 Vitara 4u2 - Calmini 3+3, 33" MTs, 5:83 R&Ps, winch bumper, remapped ECU.
1986 Suzuki SJ413K - G16 conversion
1984 Suzuki SJ410 - Blitz
Re: SJ410 over heating
I love the little f10a yeah it's a bit underpowered but you can thrash them all day long and try just love it
Just make sure you uses good quality piston rings, I got some off eBay and the quality was questionable
Just make sure you uses good quality piston rings, I got some off eBay and the quality was questionable
Re: SJ410 over heating
I will probably order everything through my mate, he is the manager at my local MPD.
Shells is my only issue, cant find them online. But as the rods and pistons are out, I'd be a fool not to change them too for what they're probably going to cost.
Shells is my only issue, cant find them online. But as the rods and pistons are out, I'd be a fool not to change them too for what they're probably going to cost.
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- I spend far too much time on here
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- Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:12 pm
- Location: London
Re: SJ410 over heating
Lovely SJ, great work - hope she's well again soon!
1985 SJ413VX (SJ50V) with SPOA, rear disc brakes, 31x10.5R15 Kaiman Malatesta tyres, an MOT and a lot left to do!
My: Build thread ● To-do list ● Pay and Play map
My: Build thread ● To-do list ● Pay and Play map
Re: SJ410 over heating
If I had the time, money and space to do it I'd love to rebuild my SJ engine, but I'd like to do a lot of long distance journeys and taking the back roads takes a lot longer than motorways so I'm going for a 2.0L grand vitara
But I would definitely say the 1.0 f10a engines are brilliant, and surprisingly good on fuel in long distant journeys as I found out myself with mine, wish there was a way I could keep it but I can't :(
But I would definitely say the 1.0 f10a engines are brilliant, and surprisingly good on fuel in long distant journeys as I found out myself with mine, wish there was a way I could keep it but I can't :(
2003 Grand Vitara 2.0 16v
16x7 Black 8 spokes
Nexen road tyres
32mm spacers
Kenwood Double Din Head Unit
Hidden CB radio
Cruise Control
GV Build Thread
SJ Build Thread
Facebook
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SuzukiPicsUK on Instagram
16x7 Black 8 spokes
Nexen road tyres
32mm spacers
Kenwood Double Din Head Unit
Hidden CB radio
Cruise Control
GV Build Thread
SJ Build Thread
YouTube
SuzukiPicsUK on Instagram
Re: SJ410 over heating
I always take A&B roads over motorways no matter how far or what I'm driving, I would rather it take a little longer and enjoy my drive than not be bored out of my mind sat on a motorway